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Wine Notes: January/February 2014

Jeffery Lindenmuth - January/February 2014

Bodega Colomé Torrontés Calchaquí Val­ley 2012
From the high-altitude Argentinean estate of Donald Hess comes this elegant and floral tinged rendition of Torrontes, displaying bountiful jasmine, lemon, and citrus notes. A palate of zippy tangerine and white peach shows a fine balance of sweetness and acidity, with a chalky edge on the finish.
Score: 85
Cost: $120
Cases: 3,500

Francis Ford Coppola Pinot Noir Cali­fornia Votre Santé 2011
This Pinot nicely balances great presence with quiet complexity. Compared to many California Pinots, it veers to the lighter side, elegant in its cedary clove-laced strawberry fruit. It embraces Pinot Noir’s hallmarks of supple texture and bright fruit, making it a great by-the-glass value.
Score: 86
Cost: $120
Cases: 21,141

Apex Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2011
Crafted in a lively, food-friendly style, this Chard is fresh and fruit driven, with tropical pineapple set against yellow apple, Asian pear, and pink grapefruit. Vibrant, zesty, and refreshing on the palate, a slightly creamy texture is coupled with a bright crisp finish.
Score: 87
Cost: $150
Cases: 2,000

Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2011
The entry level wine from this Pinot pro is both robust and very pretty, with lifted scents of rose petal and violet riding high above the juicy plum and black cherry notes. The palate reveals purity of fruit, underscored by earth and mineral, mingled with baking spices, cola, and anise. But it’s the fine tannins and velvety texture that make this wine so seductive.
Score: 92
Cost: $360
Cases: 7,029

Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera 2009
A rich, firm, and chewy red, this is the perfect complement for wintry menus of braised meat and hearty foods. The dense plum pudding fruit shows solid structure on the palate, swirling with damp earth, dried dates, dark coffee, bittersweet chocolate, and cigar wrapper. The long finish reveals fine drying tannins and savory herbs.
Score: 92
Cost: $488
Cases: 35,000

Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2007
Crafted in large Slovenian oak casks, the flagship Barolo of Cavallotto displays the beefy muscle and earthy spice that define the house’s traditional style. Black plum, currant, and cherry fruit is fresh and bright, but veiled in layers of rustic complexity, leading to a long dry finish.
Score: 93
Cost: $440
Cases: 2,000

Cune Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva 2004
A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, and Mazuelo grapes and aged in new French and American oak, this wine nimbly walks the line of heritage and modernity, its aromas of blackberry and cherry married with leather, licorice, tobacco, and spice. Medium-bodied, with solid structure and great depth, this plush red shows good maturity now, but has a long life ahead. Wine Spectator’s 2013 Wine of the Year.
Score: 95
Cost: $500
Cases: 4,000

Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Co­lumbia Valley 2010
Concentrated, intensely aromatic, and distinctive, this Washington Cab displays a solid core of crushed berry fruit, with captivating aromas of espresso, violets, cedary spice, and jasmine. Full-bodied, rich, and lingering, with ample tannins, it shows restraint and lovely balance on the long finish.
Score: 95
Cost: $1,350
Cases: 4,150

Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 2010
Tucked between the widely declared vintages of 2007 and 2011, this single quinta wine represents the best of 2010, its ripe concentrated aroma oozing with kirsch and jammy berries. It exudes pure power on the palate, the decadent chocolate covered cherry flavors laced with licorice and herbs on the finish.
Score: 98
Cost: $62
Cases: 650