Mike Davis' braised Cabernet-fed beef shoulder with a "trio within a trio" of onions & braising reduction.
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Spring/Summer Menu Preview 2006

Juliet Glass - March 2006

Burning their braisiers, six chefs liberated from the chill of the root cellar fling open the doors to welcome virgin veggies and fragrant fruits into their warm-weather kitchens.

Mike Davis
26brix
Walla Walla, Washington
"I get asked a lot why I moved to a small town in eastern Washington. My first response used to be, ‘The wine, of course.' Then I realized that there's a whole world of local agriculture within a stone's throw, like asparagus, Walla Walla's famous sweet onions, and wild mushrooms."

Appetizer
Custard of chanterelle mushrooms with Oregon black truffle, hedgehog mushrooms & seared Hudson Valley foie gras & mushroom powder. "For the custard, sauté chanterelles, garlic, and shallots in clarified butter; deglaze with white wine; add heavy cream; reduce; puree; pass through a chinois. Simmer mixture in a pan; add egg yolks and gelatin; pour into buttered ramekins; bake until set. Sauté hedgehog mushrooms in clarified butter; add chopped savory and fleur de sel. Separately, season and sear scored foie gras. For the mushroom powder, pulverize dried hedgehogs and chanterelles. To serve, place custard on one side of an oval dish; top with shaved Oregon black truffles; on the other side, place foie gras atop a mound of sautéed hedgehog mushrooms; garnish with small cooked whole hedgehogs; dust with mushroom powder."

Entrées
Douglas fir–glazed Columbia River sturgeon with Viognier-poached artichoke, micro celery, mâche & verjus-infused yellow tomato puree. "We use wild Douglas fir tree branches, which have an earthy, piney flavor that is not overpowering. For the glaze, bring a two-to-one mixture of water and sugar to a boil; pour into a French press; add a few inches of new growth Douglas fir branch; steep five minutes; strain. Season and sear sturgeon fillet in clarified butter, presentation side down, until light golden brown; flip; brush with the glaze; place under a salamander, removing every few minutes to brush with glaze. Meanwhile, poach a whole trimmed artichoke heart in a court bouillon of Viognier, chicken stock, lemon, onion, thyme, and black peppercorns until soft. Lightly sauté quartered yellow tomatoes, shallots, and garlic in clarified butter; deglaze pan with verjus; add vegetable stock and saffron threads; simmer to reduce; puree; pass through fine-meshed sieve so it still has a little texture. To serve, ladle tomato puree into the center of a plate; add poached whole artichoke; top with some mâche tossed in olive oil, salt, and pepper; stack sturgeon on top; garnish with micro celery tossed in olive oil, salt, and pepper."

Braised Cabernet-fed beef shoulder with a "trio within a trio" of onions & braising reduction. "We use beef that is fed the leftover grape skins from Cabernet pressings. The skins contain 7 percent alcohol, which means the cows are super relaxed, resulting in very tender meat. Season and sear shoulder in clarified butter. In the same pan, sauté aromatics and mirepoix; deglaze with red wine. Place shoulder and deglazing liquid in a deep roasting dish; cover with equal parts chicken and veal stocks; braise in the oven until it's falling apart. Cool in the braising liquid; trying to maintain sturdiness of shoulder, portion out pieces. Reduce and strain braising liquid. Sauté cipollini, Walla Walla sweet onions, and leeks separately in clarified butter; reserve some and puree some raw. Also, fry some of each onion separately in duck fat. In the end you have three types of onions prepared in the same three ways. Next make a puree of Peruvian purple potatoes. To serve, heat a portion of shoulder in the sauce until warm; place shoulder in a large square plate; top with a quenelle of potato puree; to the side paint a line of leek puree and top with a dollop of sautéed leeks and then fried leeks; repeat with other onion preparations."

Dessert
Local strawberries with alfalfa honeycomb/mint sorbet, strawberry/Gewürztraminer "soup" & fried mint. "Everything in this dish is from the area. A local gal harvests the honey and honeycomb, and the Gewürztraminer is from Walla Walla's Biscuit Ridge Vineyard. Bring Gewürztraminer to a boil; reduce; add sugar and chopped strawberries; cook until the berries soften; mix with an immersion blender until super smooth, but don't strain. Make a classic sorbet, adding lots of pureed blanched mint. To serve, pour soup into large rimmed soup bowl; place fresh honeycomb in the center along with a quenelle of sorbet and freshly sliced wild strawberries; garnish with a fried mint leaf."

Danny Mellman
Bonita Bistro & Bar
Bonita Springs, Florida
"We don't have a huge change in seasons here; it's either tourist season or not tourist season. But we do have subtle changes with fish and produce, and in the spring we have incredible amounts of tropical fruit. On our property alone we grow three types of mango, two types of avocado, carambola, lychee, acerola (Barbados cherry), coconut, and bananas."

Appetizer
Five-spice/panko–fried Apalachicola oysters returned to shell on a twist of fresh Asian pear/cashew lo mein & curried mussel stew. "Shuck oysters, reserving liquor and deeper half of the shell. In succession, dredge oysters in rice flour seasoned with five-spice powder, ground dried habañero chiles, and ground ginger, then egg whites mixed with water, and finally panko (Japanese bread crumbs). Make a slaw from julienned Asian pear, red pepper, cilantro, mirin, and sugar. Poach fresh lo mein noodles in water seasoned with fish stock, fresh ginger, and salt; toss with toasted cashews, julienned Asian pear, and a dressing of dark soy sauce, sesame oil, mirin, fish sauce, honey, and chopped fresh Thai chiles. For the stew, steam mussels, remove meat from shells, and reserve liquor. Sweat finely diced ginger, celery, onion, and carrots in sesame oil; add Thai red curry paste, mussel and oyster liquors, coconut milk, and heavy cream; reduce. Add reserved mussels, chop with an immersion blender, and garnish with chopped scallions and cilantro. To serve, arrange five piles of Asian pear slaw on a long tray; place an oyster shell on top of each pile and put a twist of Asian pear/cashew lo mein in each oyster shell; deep fry oysters in canola oil until golden; drain; place on lo mein; top with mussel stew."

Entrées
Cedar plank–roasted Delaware shad with Fuji apple & Vidalia onion crust, tartlet of caramelized onions, triple-smoked bacon, sage & roasted roe & apple cider aïoli. "Make aïoli by processing Dijon mustard, apple cider vinegar, white wine vinegar, chopped Granny Smith apple, scallion, egg yolks, sugar, and black pepper, and then drizzling in grapeseed oil. Wash shad roe in ice water and lemon juice. To poach, place roe in a saucepan; cover with ice; add salt and peppercorns; heat over medium flame; once it simmers, remove from heat; cool in liquid. Make tart shells of flour, cornmeal, egg, and butter; bake three-quarters of the way through. Sauté diced bacon; add diced onions and butter; cook until caramelized; add fresh chopped sage and balsamic vinegar. Coat bottom of tart shell with aïoli; fill with onion mixture; top with a slice of shad roe and a little more aïoli. To make shad, coat a cedar plank with olive oil and drape with bacon slices; place plank in the oven to heat; put the shad on the plank; roast halfway; coat shad with aïoli and shingle with alternating rows of sliced apple and onion; roast until done. To serve, garnish plank with the tartlet, griddled black pepper asparagus, and a porcelain cup of aïoli; drape table with waffle dish towel; place plank on the towel."

Three little pigs: suckling pig sliced with "bread and butter" carambola relish; pulled, tossed with wild onions & blackberries & wrapped in crackling; confit foreshank with cinnamon, star anise & orange on smoked corn pudding. "For the relish, thinly slice unripened carambola on a mandoline; cover with kosher salt and ice; allow to sit for a few hours; drain. Bring to a boil a sweet/sour pickle mix of turmeric, salt, sugar, white wine vinegar, water, whole black peppercorns, cinnamon sticks, and juniper berries; pour over carambola; refrigerate. After a few days finely dice carambola and mix with finely diced red pepper, red onion, chopped candied ginger, light corn syrup, honey, and fresh chopped curry leaf. Meanwhile, brine the whole suckling pig overnight in water, salt, sugar, and pickling spices. Dry in the walk-in for crispest skin. Cover outside and inside with a rub made of toasted ground cumin and coriander seeds, cinnamon, cloves, dried orange zest, and salt; roast in very hot oven until the skin starts to brown; cover with foil; roast another hour; turn off oven, leaving the pig inside until done. To prepare shank, heat whole star anise, cinnamon sticks, and orange peel in enough duck fat to cover the meat; add peeled trimmed skinned shanks; bring to a simmer; cover; finish in the oven. Right before service, remove excess fat and sear in hot cast-iron skillet. For the pulled pork, shred any meat from the suckling pig that is not good for slicing. Reserve crackling. Sweat chopped ramps in butter; add ground cumin, shaved garlic, cayenne pepper, black pepper, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, and apple cider vinegar; when it bubbles add fresh blackberries, fresh ground allspice, and pulled pork. For the smoked corn pudding, soak fresh corn on the cob in salted water; smoke in a smoker; remove kernels; simmer in milk, salt, black pepper, and corncobs; cool; strain. Next, fold beaten egg whites into a custard of egg yolks, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, butter, infused milk, and reserved corn; bake in a buttered casserole sprinkled with cornmeal. To serve, put a scoop of corn pudding in the center of a plate and around it place warmed shank, sliced pork with relish, and a cone of pulled pork wrapped in reserved crackling; drizzle with leftover pan sauce from pulled pork."

Dessert
Nanny's chocolate cake "the nuts." "This is my grandmother's chocolate cake. She'd make it for birthdays and would hide prizes in the batter. It's a superrich, dense, moist, old-fashioned chocolate layer cake, filled with peanut butter mousse. I serve it with roasted coconut/chocolate/almond ice cream, warm chocolate sauce, and a glass of cold milk. Sift together cocoa powder, sugar, flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda; combine with milk and vegetable oil. Add eggs, one at time, and boiling water; this cooks the eggs a little and gives the batter some strength. Bake in two greased and floured 10-inch round cake pans. Reserve one cake layer and halve the other horizontally, crumbling one-half of it. Meanwhile, combine peanut butter, roasted peanuts, sour cream, and light corn syrup; fold in whipped cream and crumbled chocolate cake. Spread on reserved half of cake in unclosed nine-inch springform pan; pile peanut butter mousse in center; top with whole cake layer, pushing down edges; tighten the ring. For the ice cream, make a crème anglaise, replacing some of the heavy cream with coconut milk. Once processed in ice cream machine, fold in toasted shredded sweetened coconut and dark chocolate–covered toasted almonds. To serve, place a slice of cake on each plate with a scoop of ice cream, a cup of warm chocolate sauce, and a glass of cold milk."

Erik Desjarlais
Bandol & Ladle
Portland, Maine
"The passing of the bitter Maine winter shines a brilliant light on new crops, young animals, and a wealth of sea creatures so abundant that we can create our menus with an honest grassroots approach."

Appetizer
Chilled puree of English pea soup with golden pea tendrils & applewood-smoked bacon ice cream. "Chill English peas in an ice water bath. Using a two-ring stockpot burner, bring water seasoned with sugar and salt to a boil; add peas; turn on second flame to avoid losing the boil; boil vigorously until peas are tender and bright green; shock. Pulse peas in a blender until coarsely pureed and pass through a tamis; blend a second time, adding ice water to attain the consistency of heavy cream; season; strain; chill. For bacon ice cream, steep applewood-smoked bacon in heavy cream and milk; strain; use the bacon-flavored cream to make a custard; add liquid glucose to the chilled custard; process in an ice cream machine. To plate, scoop a quenelle of ice cream into a chilled soup bowl and garnish with micro pea tendrils dressed in olive oil, Sherry vinegar, and fleur de sel. Buzz chilled soup with immersion blender until frothy and pour into bowl tableside from chilled soup tureen or teapot."

Entrées
Lemon beurre blanc–braised Maine lobster with corn & lobster coral emulsion. "Bring water and Champagne vinegar to a boil; pour over live lobster, let sit for five minutes. While still hot, break off tail and claws where the knuckle meets the body; remove tail and claw meat, keeping claw whole. To make the emulsion, sear the cleaned body, free of gills, in a pan coated with hot canola oil; add chopped tomatoes, sliced shallots and carrots, tarragon, parsley, and chervil sprigs; deglaze with water; simmer; strain; reduce; add heavy cream; reduce again; whisk in reserved coral; simmer; strain. For the lemon beurre blanc, mount a lemon juice/water reduction with butter; season. Poach room temperature lobster tail and claw meat in the beurre blanc. Warm blanched corn kernels in beurre blanc and crème fraîche. Place a spoonful of the corn in the center of a warm plate, stack the lobster tail and claw on top, and drizzle with warmed lobster coral emulsion. Garnish with chervil pluches dressed in olive oil, lemon juice, fleur de sel, and black pepper."

Spring chicken. "Chickens are constantly mating, so there are always small birds, but in the spring our supplier feeds them a blend of new grass and fermented corn, so they taste just like Maine. Skin a small young chicken, slicing down the back from the neck to the pope's nose, leaving the skin in one piece. Lay skin flat on paper towels in the walk-in to dry out. Carve out the breasts; season with black pepper; roll into a ballottine; envelop in plastic wrap; briefly place in freezer to set. Remove plastic wrap; roll the breasts in the reserved skin; tie with butcher's twine; rewrap in plastic; refrigerate. Sear whole legs in canola oil and then braise in a light stock made from the cut-up carcass and some lemon segments. Strain the braising liquid; shred leg meat; reduce braising liquid to sauce consistency. For vegetables, use blanched fava beans, English peas, haricots verts, and whole baby artichokes braised in acidulated chicken stock with aromatics. To finish, salt the ballottine and sear in hot pan with canola oil; add a thyme sprig and butter; finish in the oven. Season the reserved sauce with lemon juice, salt, and pepper; whisk in a few knobs of butter. Add the vegetables and leg meat, garlic, and chopped chives. On a warm plate, spoon a mound of the vegetables, leg meat, and sauce into a ring mold. Top with sliced ballottine; garnish with micro chervil, snipped chives, and micro tarragon."

Dessert
Goat's milk crème cuit. Alana Beard. "This is a twist on the classic savory combination of goat cheese, beets, and Sherry vinegar. Bring goat's milk and fresh goat's milk cheese to a boil; add sugar and vanilla bean scrapings; simmer; steep, off heat; strain; add dissolved gelatin; pour into individual molds; refrigerate to set. Make ice cream from a custard base, liquid glucose, and reduced golden beet juice. Candy thinly sliced beets. To serve, place a beet disk on the surface of the crème cuit; unmold, placing it beet side down on a chilled plate; top with a quenelle of ice cream; spoon a Sherry vinegar sabayon around."

Gray Kunz
Café Gray
New York City
"Planning for the spring starts in the winter, when I begin thinking about fiddlehead ferns and baby greens. I like to find a quiet spot to go to my files and think about ingredients. It's a very fun time because by the end of winter everybody is longing for tender pea greens. It's always exciting when you get your first spring products."

Appetizer
Bouquet of asparagus, fresh peas, mint & yogurt. "Blanch and shock pencil-thin asparagus; tie together with a piece of leek; toss in a vinaigrette of grapeseed oil, Sherry vinegar, and salt. Make a sauce of yogurt seasoned with salt, sugar, pepper, and cayenne; fold in chopped mint and blanched peas. Make a salad of pea greens, blanched fresh peas, Italian parsley, frisée, and other fresh baby greens; dress with the vinaigrette. To serve, coat a plate with yogurt sauce; twist the asparagus bundle and release onto a plate as you would in the game of Pick-Up Sticks; garnish with pea greens salad."

Entrées
Spring ragoût of favas, turnips & sugar snaps. "I use whatever I can find in season--favas, turnips, baby carrots, pea greens, fiddleheads, ramps, sugar snaps, baby spinach. Blanch and shock each vegetable separately. Leave leafy greens raw. If using baby carrots, cook in a little chicken stock. Make harissa by sautéing peeled chopped roasted red peppers in olive oil and garlic, then adding cayenne, ground cumin, ground coriander, and saffron threads. To serve, wilt spinach and pea greens in a pan with butter; add carrots, other blanched vegetables, and a bit of the carrot poaching stock; stir in harissa. Serve with a slice of grilled rustic bread."

Braised wild salmon with whipped potatoes & Cabernet reduction. "Coat both sides of a wild salmon fillet with softened butter; season the top with salt, pepper, and cayenne; bake in the lower part of a 180 degree oven. When the butter melts, it slowly braises the salmon; the trick is to know when the salmon is cooked since it will maintain its rosy raw color. To make the whipped potatoes, boil peeled, halved yellow-skinned potatoes. Once tender, put on sheet pan and dry in a hot oven to prevent them from absorbing too much liquid. Pass through a ricer; using a spatula, fold in heated milk, salt, nutmeg, and butter. Once they begin to bind, whisk in heavy cream, more butter, salt, and pepper. For the sauce, sweat diced carrots, celery, leeks, and onions in butter; deglaze with Cabernet Sauvignon, cooking down until consistency is almost syrupy. Remove from the heat and mount with butter; season with salt and a bit of sugar to balance any bitterness from the wine; do not strain. To serve, put whipped potatoes in the center of each plate; set salmon on top and drizzle with sauce."

Dessert
Rhubarb/hazelnut floating island with cinnamon anglaise. Chris Broberg. "This baked meringue is sturdy and can be made in advance of service. Butter individual molds and dust with superfine sugar. Whip egg whites and a pinch of salt until foamy; add superfine sugar; whip until stiff; fold in hazelnut nougatine and vanilla extract. Pack the molds without crushing the meringue. Heat oven with a pan of boiling water in it to create steam; place meringues in the oven and remove the pan of water; cook until they soufflé up and are slightly beige; remove from oven; cool. Make a crème anglaise with half-and-half infused with cinnamon sticks. Dice rhubarb; moisten bottom of pan with water; add rhubarb, sugar, lemon juice, and the scrapings from a vanilla bean; cook covered until broken down; cool. Make a tuile with equal weights of sugar, flour, and melted butter and double the weight of egg whites. The extra egg whites make it very light and delicate. Spread onto a black sheet pan, cover with chopped hazelnuts, and bake until brown. Press hot tuile into a ramekin to form a dome. To serve, put cold rhubarb compote in the middle of large pasta bowl; using a squeeze bottle, encircle with cinnamon anglaise; unmold meringue into bowl; top with a tuile; sprinkle with confectioners' sugar."

Michael & Laurence Gottlieb
Gottlieb's Restaurant & Dessert Bar
Savannah, GA
Michael: "The spring brings my all-time favorite local ingredient, Vidalia onions. I love the sweetness and the fact that they don't make you cry when you chop them. If you pull a baby Vidalia straight from the ground and take a bite, it will be tender, sweet, and juicy."

Appetizer
Pan-seared gnocchi with pecan pesto & Savannah sweet shrimp sauté. "Make gnocchi dough from cooked riced Idaho potatoes, flour, egg yolk, salt, and pepper. Sauté blanched gnocchi in butter until golden brown. Make a pesto from toasted Georgia pecans, fresh basil, garlic, red pepper flakes, grated Parmesan, and olive oil; whisk in reduced heavy cream; simmer to thicken. Peel and devein shrimp; halve lengthwise so they curl when you cook them. Season and sauté in a hot cast-iron skillet with clarified butter; add some whole butter, minced garlic, and shallots; give a final toss, then drain. To serve, put a dollop of sauce in center of each bowl and build the gnocchi up in the center. Spoon more sauce on top and stud the shrimp curls into the gnocchi; garnish with toasted baby pecans tossed in brown butter and salt, strips of Parmesan, and flowers such as snapdragons or Johnny jump-ups."

Entrées
Braised rabbit leg & poached loin on top of Kobe beef brisket Brunswick stew, creamy grits & wild mushrooms. "Brunswick stew is the hodgepodge stew of the South traditionally made with squirrel and cooked slowly over the fire. Make a barbecue sauce from reduced chopped fresh tomatoes, celery, carrots, onions, salt, pepper, cayenne, cider vinegar, Dijon mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and ketchup. Reduce and reserve some sauce for the rabbit. Cover seasoned seared brisket with barbecue sauce; place in covered roasting pan; slowly roast until fork tender, then uncover until it's crisped. Strain and puree the sauce, reserving vegetables. Chop the brisket; add the pureed barbecue sauce, reserved vegetables, fresh corn kernels, chopped and seared okra, blanched and shelled butter beans, and chopped skinned tomatoes seasoned with salt, pepper, and sugar. To reheat, add some chicken stock. Meanwhile, bone rabbit; marinate loin in olive oil, crushed garlic, thyme, and parsley. Sear and braise legs uncovered in the reserved barbecue sauce. Remove legs and poach loin in the remaining sauce until medium. To serve, ladle stew into each bowl; put creamy grits in the center; arrange rabbit loin and leg around the grits; garnish with sautéed oyster and chanterelle mushrooms."

Barbecued blue water grouper with sweet corn cream, roasted baby Vidalia onions & summer vegetables. "Blue water grouper is a day boat fish from the coast of Georgia. It's caught right where the water gets very deep, blue, and clean. Season center cut fillet and sear in smoking hot skillet, starting with presentation side. Flip; brush with post-brisket barbecue sauce (see previous recipe); finish in the oven. Make sweet corn cream by sautéing local corn and diced Vidalia onions in butter until softened; add heavy cream; reduce; puree; strain. For vegetables, we use roasted baby Vidalia onions, steamed broccoli, blanched asparagus tips, and peeled local cherry tomatoes. Place vegetables in a square of foil; top with butter, black pepper, salt, and chopped garlic; close bundle; roast in hot oven. Roast whole boiled potatoes in rendered duck fat. To serve, ladle corn cream over the bottom of each bowl; place potatoes and vegetables in the center; top with grouper; garnish with deep-fried shredded collard greens."

Dessert
Georgia peach dacquoise with coconut ice cream. "Peel, pit, and chop peaches; add sugar; cook until the peaches are mushy; puree while still hot; refrigerate. Our Viennese pecan cookie is a shortbread cookie that eats like a biscuit. Make a batter of flour, sugar, butter, eggs, pecans, orange zest, and salt; chill the dough; roll it out to one-inch thickness; cut with a round cookie cutter; bake until lightly brown on the bottom and slightly puffy in the middle. To assemble, place a cookie on a sheet pan; top with a scoop of peach compote; pipe meringue around the peach compote, smoothing with an offset spatula; brown in the oven or with a torch; plate with purees of fresh peach and fresh blackberry and coconut ice cream made by replacing some of the cream and sugar with coconut milk and coconut sugar; garnish with mint."

Loretta Keller
Coco500
San Francisco
"For me, the arrival of spring is a change from root vegetables and whiteness to foods with color. It's also a change in technique, since my construction of spring and summer dishes tends to be more complex in the sense of using more ingredients, yet simpler because I do less to them."

Appetizer
Branzino crudo with wild California fennel pollen, Meyer lemon, parsley & DaVero Estate olive oil. "The key to this dish is to use a really fresh fish, since it's eaten raw and you use the body as a serving vessel. In fact, you can almost make it all in the cavity of the fish. Butterfly fillet the fish, removing the spine. With the fish opened and skin side down, use a fork to scrape away the flesh without breaking the skin. The resulting shredded fish should look rustic, with different sized pieces of meat. Work Meyer lemon zest and juice, chopped parsley, and fennel pollen into the flesh. I harvest wild fennel pollen myself, but the imported Italian variety works well. Dress fish in olive oil; return the dressed fish to the body (unless you assembled it there to begin with); douse with more olive oil; garnish with fennel pollen."

Entrées
Wild nettle ravioli with braised potato leaves, sea scallops & bacon. "My favorite organic local farm, Star Route Farms, originally viewed nettles as a scourge. Now they're selling them for $18 a case. I stumbled upon potato leaves at the farmers' market, where an Asian vendor was selling them and had women lined up to buy them. The leaves are only available in the spring and have a real potato-ness about them; they're slightly starchy and a little meatier than other greens. For the nettle puree, sauté onion and smashed garlic in olive oil until translucent; add nettles, leaving leaves on the stems; cook until tender; puree; add lemon zest. Lightly fold in fresh cow's milk ricotta--you don't want a homogenous blend--and use as the filling for ravioli. For the potato leaves, sweat onions in olive oil and bacon fat; add greens and salt; cook until tender. Meanwhile, bake half strips of bacon until crisp. Season scallops and sear in olive oil. To serve, season cooked ravioli with butter, salt, and pepper; put a clump of greens on each plate; top with scallops; nestle bacon around the scallops; dress with pan juices; scatter ravioli around."

Roasted guinea fowl breast & liver with crushed artichokes, sage, garlic, Pecorino Toscana & arugula. "Brine the breast on the bone in water, salt, sugar, bay leaf, juniper berries, fresh thyme, and wide strips of lemon zest for up to six hours. Remove the breast from the bone and trim the wing down to the first joint. Brown skin side down in canola and olive oils; flip; lightly brown the other side, adding sprigs of fresh thyme; finish in a hot oven. Season liver and put in the pan just before the breast is done. Meanwhile, parcook whole artichokes in salted water with olive oil; remove leaves and choke to get to the heart; quarter the hearts. Sweat whole crushed garlic cloves in olive oil; add artichokes and whole sage leaves; cook over moderately low heat; when they begin to soften and caramelize, smash with a wooden spoon, exposing more surface area to caramelize; remove sage leaves. To plate, put a mound of artichokes on each plate; top with sliced breast; nestle liver in a mound of arugula dressed in olive oil, lemon juice, and salt; shave pecorino over the entire dish."

Dessert
Apricot/Santa Rosa plum crumble with icewine sorbet. "As late spring turns to summer in Northern California, hot days ripen the stone fruits. Apricots and plums, bursting with flavor, color, and tang, are baked here, then given a crunchy topping and paired with a sweet, intensely apricot-perfumed icewine sorbet, a nod back to the winter just passed. This is a deconstructed crisp with all the components cooked separately. Melt butter and sugar in a roasting pan; place halved apricots cut side down in the pan; roast in a hot oven; remove skins. Repeat with plums. Separately set aside the cooked fruits and their juices. Bake a crumble mixture of flour, sugar, butter, cornstarch, and coarsely chopped roasted almonds. To make the sorbet, simmer icewine, white grape juice, and simple syrup until reduced; cool; process in an ice cream maker. To serve, place warm fruits next to each other with their respective juices in shallow bowls; sprinkle with crumble; top with a scoop of sorbet."