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Kasu marinated wahoo with kimchi broth, broccoli ravioli & Maine mussels.
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Spring/Summer Menu Preview 2011

Judiaann Woo - March 2011

Days grow longer. So, too, does the volume and variety of produce. Chefs rejoice. Six happy ones describe what they're doing to cook as the seasonal spigot lets loose a torrent of ingredients.

Tony Conte
The Oval Room
Washington, D.C.
"We're located just across the park from the White House, but we haven't had President Obama in yet. His wife came into our sister restaurant Rasika, and that was pretty crazy. We do get a lot of dignitaries and ambassadors coming in, but mostly we're cooking for locals. We do American food, incorporating ingredients and techniques from around the world with the goal of producing brighter, more vibrant flavors."

Appetizer
Pea puree orb filled with morels, Parmesan cream & rye/speck dumplings. "This course will consist of a hollow liquid nitrogen–shaped sphere of pea puree, maybe four inches in diameter, filled with rye/speck dumplings, tiny sautéed morel mushrooms, Parmesan cream, glazed English peas, micro pea tendrils, micro fennel, chives, maybe some saltwort, and small edible flowers. The sphere will be filled at the last moment and placed cut side down on a bed of mushroom/coffee ‘soil' made of baked, dehydrated, and pulverized dried mushrooms combined with hazelnut flour, a little ground coffee, cocoa powder, sugar, salt, and butter. To make the pea puree for the orb, sauté onions, garlic, celery, and bacon before adding pea stock made from pea shells and whole peas; bring to a simmer; season with salt and white pepper; remove the bacon before pureeing and straining until ultra smooth. For the dumplings, combine diced dry rye bread with a brunoise of speck, thyme, parsley, salt, and pepper; moisten with some egg and chicken stock for a stuffing-like consistency; shape into fingernail-sized dumplings; poach in salted water. To make the Parmesan cream, heat chicken stock with onions, carrots, and celery before adding Parmesan; bring to a simmer; reduce by half; add gelatin leaves to stabilize; transfer to an iSi whipper; aerate with a nitrous oxide charger; dispense at room temperature."

Entrées
Kasu marinated wahoo with kimchi broth, broccoli ravioli & Maine mussels "I started playing around with sake kasu a while back for a roasted duck dish, and it's just awesome. It comes in sheets that look a bit like spring roll wrappers but it's actually the yeast remains from the production of sake. I find that adding kasu to marinades adds a wonderfully deep rich flavor and brings out a lovely dark barbecue-like color. I'm thinking of flavoring wahoo with it this spring. The fish, from North Carolina, is just firm and rich enough to handle such a treatment. For the marinade, blend kasu, light soy sauce, honey, thyme, and water together to make a paste. Marinate fish for six hours before slowly roasting. For the ravioli filling, cook broccoli florets in a little olive oil with garlic and red pepper flakes until very tender; puree with ricotta; use as the filling for agnolotti; poach agnolotti to order; serve in a chicken broth flavored with caramelized ground beef, garlic, carrots, celery, and parsnips with pureed kimchi added at the end and then strained. Add steamed Maine mussels; top with the roasted wahoo."

Korean barbecue lacquered beef cheeks with griddle rice cakes, Chinese budding kale & cured pumpkin. "Make a paste of garlic, ginger, Asian pear, palm sugar, olive oil, lime zest, kaffir lime leaves, and Korean chile paste in soybean oil; rub onto beef cheeks; marinate six hours before wiping off. Season with salt and white pepper; sear; braise in a mixture of soy sauce, water, onions, garlic, ginger, Asian pear, palm sugar, and kaffir lime leaves. Serve the braised cheeks lacquered with the reduced braising liquid. Also on the plate: thinly sliced and rolled red kuri squash cured in some of same red chile paste with kaffir lime, lemongrass, lime zest, and salt; and griddled rice cakes made from sticky rice sautéed in caramelized shallots, ginger, finely chopped kaffir lime, lemongrass, salt, and white pepper with trimmed and blanched Chinese budding kale, seasoned and dressed lightly in olive and sesame oils".

Dessert
Peach butter cake with Chartreuse ice cream & peach salad. "Sprinkle a square pan with sugar before adding peach halves, cut side down, and topping with a batter of flour, melted butter, eggs, sugar, a pinch of salt, and vanilla extract for what is essentially a peach upside-down cake. The ice cream is made in a slightly untraditional way without eggs but with the addition of a 'milk block' for body. To make the block, heat milk; whisk in low-acyl gellan gum; pour into a container; let mixture gel; cut into small pieces. In a separate pot, infuse basil into hot cream; strain; add sugar, milk powder, a pinch of salt, Chartreuse, and elderflower syrup; add the milk block; puree until smooth; spin the ice cream base in a Pacojet to order. Cut the butter cake into four by one inch bars; serve a slice with a scoop of the Chartreuse ice cream along with a salad of fresh ripe peaches with micro basil. Garnish the plate with some sous-vide cooked peach puree thickened with xanthan gum and shards of peach paper made of dehydrated peach puree flavored with more Chartreuse and elderflower".

Tim Cushman
O Ya
Boston

"My interest in Japanese cooking began years ago while working under Japanese chefs in California, but it wasn't until I traveled throughout Asia that I fully grasped the detail and clarity of flavor the Japanese achieve through their cooking techniques. Our defining moment came in 2008 when Frank Bruni wrote about us in the New York Times, naming us number one on his list of restaurants that count from coast to coast. That changed everything. It was like opening a restaurant in New York City without actually opening a restaurant there. We still have people who come in and ask to have what Frank had."

Appetizer
"Black & white" usuzukuri of kampachi with white soy, black truffled olive puree & green garlic oil. "Like sashimi, usuzukuri is a method of preparing and serving raw seafood. But unlike sashimi, usuzukuri involves slicing the raw fish much, much thinner and fanning it out in such a way that you can almost see through it. For this dish, slice and arrange the kampachi, also known as yellow jack, on a small plate. Kampachi is a good choice for this dish because it's a somewhat fatty fish that will hold up to the bold flavors. To fulfill the white component, make a vinaigrette with white soy sauce, fresh ginger juice, some lemon and yuzu juices, and light olive oil. Drizzle over the fish along with dabs of the black component, the black truffled olive puree: combine pitted Moroccan dry-cured olives, fresh black truffles, and some truffle oil with just enough mild olive oil to pull it together. Garnish with dabs of green garlic oil made by blending green garlic bulbs and stems in grapeseed oil with a touch of sea salt. I prefer not to strain the oil because I like seeing the little bits of green in the liquid. Finish with a few small edible flowers and a shaving of fresh seasonal truffle."

Entrées
*Spring tempura of asparagus, squash blossoms, maitake mushrooms, nasturtium flowers, yellow chive/white soy sabayon & garlic flowers. * "This dish includes an assortment of the first signs of spring. Each gets dipped in a simple tempura batter of flour, eggs, and ice-cold water. Keep the batter a little lumpy and don't overmix. If you were in Japan, they'd tell you to mix only with chopsticks and only in one direction, but I'm a little more forgiving. Fry each piece for about 20 seconds before flicking on some more batter as it's frying to produce an even crunchier exterior texture. We use a squeeze bottle for this purpose, and it works out great. The oil we use is a standard vegetable/canola blend but we keep about 25 percent of the used oil with 75 percent of the new to create a 'seasoned' oil that adds a little extra flavor to the tempura. For a dipping sauce, make a savory sabayon using a mildly flavored sake, egg yolks, and white soy sauce; whisk over a bain-marie until thickened; fold in yellow chives cooked in butter, then pureed. Instead of the traditional tempura paper, line a plate with fresh nasturtium leaves and arrange the tempura on top along with a sprinkling of garlic and chive flowers."

Tofu "katsu" with warm spring pea/dashi velouté & buttered peas. "Tonkatsu is a very traditional dish in Japan. It's typically made with pounded pork cutlet, panko-crusted and deep-fried. For this variation of katsu, I plan to replace the pork with a small block of firm, house-made tofu. Dust the tofu with flour; dip in tempura batter; deep-fry; season immediately. For the velouté, make a dashi base using bonito flakes and dried shiitake mushrooms; for added depth and smoky flavor, add a piece of bacon or ham hock; bring to a simmer; add spring peas, cooking until tender; discard ham; puree soup; strain to produce a light but very flavorful soup. Top the tofu with a spoonful of buttered spring peas cooked in a reduced dashi beurre monté. Garnish with shavings of fresh bonito flakes and a few super thin shiitake mushroom chips made crispy by brushing with oil, sprinkling with salt, and drying in a low oven on a Silpat nonstick pad."

Dessert
Daiginjo sake fruit cocktail. "The inspiration behind this dessert is the classic fruit cocktail you get out of a can that's served with cottage cheese. This refined version is essentially a chilled fruit soup with various poached fruits served in the strained, sake-based poaching liquid topped with little dollops of soy milk fluff and garnished with a few shiso flowers to echo the shiso flavor in the liquid. For the poaching liquid, bring daiginjo sake, water, sugar, house-preserved yuzu along with some of the preserving juice, and a few shiso leaves to a simmer; add green and yellow melons, Japanese grapes that taste like Concords, yamamomo [Japanese mountain peach], and maybe some preserved ume [Japanese plums]; gently poach. Daiginjo sake is the most refined and most expensive category of sake that works particularly well with fruit because of its own fruity notes. For the fluff, heat soy milk and regular milk together until just warm enough to dissolve sugar and gelatin; cool; whip until fluffy; fold in whipped cream."

Shawn Cirkiel
Parkside
Austin, Texas
"Because of Austin's climate, our seasons blend together, so our menu ends up featuring early summer, winter, and traditional spring items at the same time. It makes it fun and challenging. We also will use a lot of ingredients from farms across Texas, though they'll be into different growing seasons, depending on where they're located."

Appetizer
King crab salad with Rio Star red grapefruit, Valley lemon foam & Mexican tarragon "Most people think California or Florida for citrus but the Rio Grande is a hotbed for some of the most amazing citrus around. Growing up, you'd see people selling local lemons on the street corner for a dollar a bag, but then someone got the very clever idea of calling them Meyer lemons, so now they cost a whole lot more. They're not really Meyer lemons but instead are a really nice hybrid from all the old citrus groves that have grown together over the years. For the salad, toss poached king crab legs with sûpremes of Rio Star red grapefruit, whole leaves of fresh Mexican tarragon, and garlic/thyme croutons with some of the reserved brown butter used in making the croutons. For the vinaigrette, combine red grapefruit juice with shallots, zest of Valley lemons, a pinch of sugar, salt, and pepper with a drizzle of first press extra-virgin olive oil from France. Plate the salad alongside a line of ground croutons garnished with delicate shards of citrus glass made from dehydrated orange juice combined with fondant, glucose, and isomalt sugars with some dollops of Valley lemon foam. To make the foam, combine juice from Valley lemons with Versawhip to stabilize and aerate in an iSi whipper to create a cotton candy–like effect."

Entrées
Oven roasted wreckfish with artichokes, cardoons, potatoes & chanterelles. "We've just opened an adjacent restaurant, a Neapolitan pizza place called The Backspace, with a shared kitchen space. I'm planning to use the pizza oven for some Parkside preparations, including this fish dish, which benefits from the smoky flavors of the wood-burning oven. Season artichokes, cardoons, baby red potatoes, and chanterelles; roast separately in little cast-iron skillets with onion, garlic, shallots, thyme, and extra-virgin olive oil; deglaze with white wine, vegetable stock, and freshly squeezed Valley lemon juice; combine vegetables. Fillet and season wreckfish; pan-sear on one side until golden; placed atop vegetables; finish in wood-burning oven; add a knob of butter and roughly chopped parsley; arrange in a big shallow bowl; drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil."

Spring lamb trio with green garlic mousseline & candied olives. "We get our grass-fed lambs in whole from a farmer up the road, breaking them down and preparing the different parts according to category. As we move through the animal, specific parts we serve may change, but the presentation will include sauce made from stock from the bones, a tougher part that's been braised, a more tender part that's been seared, and meatballs made from assorted lamb scraps. For the braise, marinate the shoulder or shank in red wine, garlic, thyme, and bay leaf; season; sear before deglazing with the marinade; add tomato paste, mirepoix, and a combination of veal and lamb stock. After braising, strain and clarify the jus before adding back the boned meat. For the meatballs, combine ground lamb with fresh bread crumbs moistened with a little milk, garlic, shallots, onions, fresh oregano, some red pepper flakes, and fennel seeds; shape into small meatballs; sear; warm in the braising liquid. Candy Kalamata olives by blanching them in simple syrup and then drying them a bit in a dehydrator to compress their flavor and texture. Add these to the braising liquid. For the tender parts of the lamb, like the loin, just season and sear. Serve with a nice swoosh of green garlic mousseline made of pureed spring garlic, butter, chicken stock, and a bit of Yukon gold potato."

Dessert
Poteet strawberries six ways with yogurt parfait "Just outside of Austin is the town of Poteet, which annually hosts a strawberry festival. The strawberries are out of this world and perfect just the way they are, but I thought it would be interesting to play around with them in different ways. At the center of the plate will be a long thin cylinder of yogurt parfait, frozen then unmolded, of local White Mountain Bulgarian-style yogurt combined with vanilla bean meringue held together with a little gelatin. Around it will be tiny scoops of sorbet made by first compressing the strawberries with red wine vinegar, sugar, thyme, and black pepper in a vacuum-sealed plastic bag. The thyme is removed and reserved, and the berries and juice are pressed through a tamis before being made into a sorbet. The dessert will also contain a soft and light biscuit warmed to order with butter and sugar, halved berries sprinkled with sugar and salt and torched brûlée-style for texture, and a bright red sauce of pureed strawberries thickened with a bit of agar-agar with some fresh diced strawberries mixed in. Tucked around and sprinkled in between will be ribbons of pulled strawberry glass, strawberry powder, compressed thyme, micro shiso, and black pepper."

Spike Gjerde
Woodberry Kitchen
Baltimore
"For us, sourcing is huge; it's why we opened the restaurant and the whole philosophy behind what we do and how we do it. Over the past three years, it's been intensely gratifying building relationships with farmers and others who are as interested in preserving diversity in breed and variety as we are. It's about being cognizant of Chesapeake Bay, the local growers, the local ecology, and being a part of the community of holding onto the good things in life before they're all gone."

Appetizer
Buffalo soft shell crab with ramps, radishes & fennel. "When water temperatures rise, the local blue crabs molt--or ‘peel,' as the locals say--their shells, resulting in Maryland's famous soft shell crabs. The inspiration for this dish is twofold. I want to find more uses for the 60 gallons of hot sauce we just made and I'm always looking for fun ways to showcase soft shell crabs. The most common method of serving them in this area is to just chop them up and fry them to eat as a snack. This gave me the idea to prepare them like Buffalo wings. For the hot sauce, I found a local organic farmer to grow fish peppers for me. The peppers, once common to the Chesapeake Bay area, have a bright, sweet-spicy flavor that, when blended with habañeros and jalapeños, make for the most spectacular vinegar-based hot sauce. I get the crabs from a guy from Tilghman Island who harvests them with a lot of care. Clean and quarter crabs; dredge in a flour/cornstarch mixture; deep-fry. In a separate pan, cook garlic slivers in butter until golden, then whisk in hot sauce. Toss crabs in this ‘buffalo' sauce and serve with ranch dressing, made with homemade mayonnaise, buttermilk, sour cream, garlic, chervil, white pepper, lemon juice, diced pickled ramps, and some of the pickling juice. In place of the traditional celery stick accompaniment, serve with an assortment of beautiful local radishes and freshly cut fennel."

Entrées
Milk- & honey-braised St. Brigid's veal shoulder with biscuit dumplings & griddled squashes. "My chef de cuisine, George Marsh, heads up our whole butchering program. He's been working with St. Brigid's Farm, located just across the bay, in bringing in whole pasture-raised veal every three weeks. This is a dish we're planning for the spring for the shoulder cut. Season and sear the shoulder before adding it to a roasting pan with mirepoix; cover with a mixture of whey, whole milk, and a good dollop of local honey. We make our own simple cheeses so we always seem to have an endless supply of whey on our hands. Cover and braise in a low oven for four to five hours before straining. Reduce braising liquid; thicken with a little roux to make a light velouté. At pick-up, place a portion of the shoulder meat in cast-iron skillet covered with some of the thickened braising liquid and top with three or four spoonfuls of buttermilk biscuit dough flavored with a little veal tallow. Place the skillet in the oven and bake until biscuits are golden and puffed. Add some baby squash varieties that have been griddled until nicely colored."

Whitmore Farm Silver Fox rabbit leg with spring garlic, peas & hominy. "We're always looking for reasons to get meat in the oven to bring out super tender, rich qualities. We braise and confit a lot and we also do a lot in our wood-burning ovens. This dish uses both oven techniques. Our rabbits come from Whitmore Farm in central Maryland, a certified organic farm specializing in heritage and American breed livestock raised on pasture. The Silver Fox rabbits are great because of their large meat-to-bone ratio. For this prep, cure legs overnight in a heavy mix of salt and fines herbes before cooking submerged in pork fat in a low oven. To serve, transfer cooled leg to a cast-iron skillet and place in the wood-burning oven to crisp up before adding slivered spring onions, fresh green peas, and Anson Mills white hominy, which have been precooked following a two day process of soaking in pickling lime, rinsing, and boiling twice. Give it a quick toss and deglaze with cheese stock made from the rinds of fine cheeses. Allow the stock to reduce a bit before mounting with butter and finishing with fresh chives. Serve the dish right from the skillet for a rustic taste of spring."

Dessert
Pastry Chef Isaiah Billington Reid Orchard & Winery cherry financier with sour cream ice cream & maple toffee. "We get fruit from Reid's Orchard & Winery, a family farm located in Buchanan Valley, Pennsylvania, all year-round. Everything they grow is wonderful, but I'm really looking forward to the Queen Anne cherries for this dessert. They're the sweet yellow ones with the beautiful pink blush. As the season progresses, I imagine we'll swap out different cherry varieties, including some nice sours, depending on what's at their peak. Place pitted cherries in individual square molds and top with financier batter made with flour, almond flour, sugar, brown butter, and egg whites. Bake and invert to unmold. Serve the warm cake with sour cream ice cream made from house-made cultured sour cream, milk, sugar, dry glucose, and a touch of salt. To make the maple toffee, slowly cook maple syrup with sugar and a little cider vinegar to the hard crack stage; pour the mixture onto a Silpat nonstick pad; cool to harden; break up into pieces; pulse in a food processor to get crunchy toffee pieces for garnish."

Shea Gallante
Ciano
New York City
"Our food is regional Italian and ingredient focused, but it's been a year and a half since I've cooked in this season, so this preview reminds me how much I look forward to cooking with spring ingredients like ramps. To me, ramps are like black truffles: they go well with everything and make just about anything taste better."

Appetizer
Crudo of live langoustines. "Right now, we do a simple raw fish prep for our crudo, but I forecast that by the time spring rolls around, we'll be ready to offer something a little more adventurous in the form of really fresh langoustines. The langoustines come from Scotland and arrive still alive. Boiling water is poured over them and then they're immediately shocked in salted ice water. The shells are then removed and the langoustines, kept whole, are tossed lightly in a mixture of toasted hazelnut and extra-virgin olive oils before getting briefly marinated in citrus juices that might consist of freshly squeezed lemon, lime, maybe a bit of calamansi. The langoustines are then plated with sliced Muscat grapes, rings of Calabrian pepper, lemon salt, a julienne of radish, and whatever micro greens are springing up that time of year. The flavors are fresh and bright, with a little spice to balance their sweetness."

Entrées
Risi e bisi of carnaroli rice with sugar snap peas & Maine lobster. "This is my variation of a traditional Venetian dish called risi e bisi, a soupier variation of risotto made with rice, herbs, peas, or other green vegetables typically flavored with a bit of saffron. Cook carnaroli rice in fortified shellfish stock with red onions, parsley, chives, oregano, and saffron oil. At the last minute, add whole sugar snap peas. Serve in a shallow soup bowl dotted with generous pieces of poached Maine lobster warmed up in extra-virgin olive oil. Make the extra effort to remove the lobsters whole from their shells to get nice big knuckle pieces and medallions of the tail. Garnish with fresh pea shoots and leaves and some pickled spring herbs."

Chicken casalinga, ragoût of fingerling potatoes, Pratomagno beans, ramps & bone marrow. "The term casalinga, meaning home-style in Italian, refers to the rustic feel of this dish. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle in a bed of alfalfa and rosemary before baking it in a terrine. The idea for cooking the chicken this way came from my days growing up on a horse farm in upstate New York, where we also grew alfalfa for the horses. The chicken absorbs all the fresh herbaceous qualities of the alfalfa and stays nice and moist in the process. For the ragoût soak and cook the Pratomagno beans separately with pancetta, onions, leeks, and carrots before combining with fingerling potatoes cooked with garlic, fresh herbs, and fortified chicken broth. Pratomagno beans look like baby cannellini beans but have a sweet taste that reminds me a bit of baby turnips. Allow the starch from the potatoes to thicken the ragoût before adding the leaves and thinly sliced bulbs of the ramps. Season with red pepper flakes, a touch of Barolo vinegar for some acidity, and finish with bone marrow pieces. Serve in a shallow terra-cotta bowl; arrange the boned chicken on top; glaze the chicken with some of the strained jus; top with fried rosemary."

Dessert
Rhubarb napoleon with zabaglione mousse & white espresso gelato. "The inspiration for this dessert comes from the classic Italian pastry shop version of a napoleon. Cook diced rhubarb to a thickened jam-like consistency and spread on a disk of crisp puff pastry with vanilla pastry cream lightened with whipped cream. Add another layer of puff pastry and a layer of zabaglione mousse. Unlike a traditional zabaglione, this version is charged with nitrogen oxide gas and dispensed from an iSi whipper for an extra light and creamy texture. Top with a final disk of puff pastry and dust the top with a crumble of cocoa nibs and chocolate espresso. I'm sure we'll garnish the top in some way that's reminiscent of the classic black and white pattern seen on most napoleons, but we'll figure that part our later. Serve with a quenelle of white espresso gelato made by steeping the espresso beans in cold milk to extract all the flavor but none of the color of the beans."

Alex Young
Zingerman's Roadhouse
Ann Arbor, Michigan
"We do a lot of research to find people who are making very special products around the country. Our food is very traditional, but we're making it using the best cheeses, grains, meats, et cetera. It helps that we're part of Zingerman's community of eight businesses, which also includes the signature deli, bakehouse, coffee company, and creamery."

Appetizer
Fried hominy & pork belly. "Fried hominy with bacon is a classic dish of the South. The soul of my version doesn't stray too far from tradition. Instead of bacon, pork belly gets salt-cured and braised, Molly Stevens–style, in beer and beef stock with mirepoix, thyme, and bay leaf. Molly, author of All About Braising, just happens to be a good friend, and I really like her method for braising with beer. After two hours, strain the braising liquid and mix with an equal part of barbecue sauce to complete the sauce. The hominy corn, a Henry Moore–style heirloom variety, comes from our own farm. First, lye-cure the kernels by boiling them with wood ash before rinsing and repeating in clean water until cooked through. Then, dust the hominy with cornmeal, salt, and black pepper; shallow-fry in hot lard. To order, sear the pork belly and arrange a few slices on top of the hominy; baste with some of the reserved braising liquid/barbecue sauce."

Entrées
Cocoa/coffee barbecued beef short ribs. "I've been playing around with adding cocoa and coffee to my barbecue for a few years now, and I really like what they're doing for the smoky earthy flavors. This spring, I'd like to apply this technique to beef short ribs. Combine pure cocoa powder with ground coffee, salt, and black pepper and rub on the ribs to cure before smoking. Our 20-foot custom smoker is something I designed with the help of North Carolina pit legend Ed Mitchell. The ribs are smoked with oak for about two hours before getting the Molly Steven's braise treatment. My beer of choice for this technique is Pub Ale, an English-style brew, by Sprecher's Brewing Company in Milwaukee, and the barbecue sauce is my own label, Alex's Red Rage. It was a name my staff came up with. I'm thinking I'll serve the short ribs with a variety of roasted local root vegetables, such as carrots, parsnips, and potatoes."

Sephardic braised lamb. "The menu and offerings at Zingerman's Delicatessen fall more in line with Eastern Jewish flavors and ingredients. For the Roadhouse, I'd like to create something with some Sephardic flavors, loosely inspired by the Jewish side dish tsimmis, sweet potatoes cooked with prunes, cinnamon, and other flavors. The lamb, pasture-raised from our 20 acre farm, would be trimmed into large chunks, seasoned with salt and pepper, dusted with flour, and browned. To that, add onions, garlic, carrots, sweet potatoes, ancho and guajillo chiles, and roasted green chiles from New Mexico; braise in freshly squeezed orange juice for about four hours until tender. Serve in a large shallow bowl with a garnish of fresh cilantro. I like to use chiles in combinations for more complex heat, which gets balanced here by the sweetness of the carrots, sweet potatoes, and orange juice."

Dessert
Roadhouse doughnut sundae. "In researching doughnuts, I came across a very good cake doughnut using a 16th century Dutch recipe flavored with freshly grated nutmeg, lemon zest, and really good molasses. Like with all old recipes, the quantities were a bit ambiguous and unreliable, so I had to do a lot of testing and retesting to get the recipe to where I have it today. For something a little fun and over the top, I'm thinking of turning the doughnut into a sundae. The doughnuts will be fried to order and served with vanilla gelato from Zingerman's Creamery. Toppings will include caramel sauce spiked with Very Old Barton Bourbon and dry roasted and salted Virginia peanuts from Edward's."