Deep Dish: November 2013
Valerie Gladstone - November 2013
NEW YORK CITY
Georgette Farkas established her first restaurant, Rotisserie Georgette (14 E. 60th St.), starring rotisserie chicken and other meats turning over open flames with chef David Malbequi in October. She was Daniel Boulud’s longtime director of marketing and public relations director. He previously worked at Prima. • Philippe Delgrange relocated and reopened his Upper East Side stalwart Le Bilboquet to 20 E. 60th St., bringing in Julien Jouhannaud from Adour to serve as exec chef. • Chefs Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette, who own restaurants in Boston, including Coppa, launched Toro (85 10th Ave.), their first in NYC. • Chef Pierre Rougey serves dishes at his new 1200 Miles (31 W. 21st St.) that span the distance from Paris to North Africa. He was formerly at Prandial. • Promising regular surprises on their tasting menu and wine list, chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske launched Contra (138 Orchard St.). Stone was previously at Isa and von Hauske at Noma, Fäviken, and Jean Georges. • Uva owner Massimo Lusardi opened Pagani (289 Bleecker St.) in an atmospheric old music store, awarding Mark Barrett the toque. He previously worked at Henry’s. • The flavors of New Orleans are featured at Todd Mitgang, Steven Kristel, and Bo Young’s Bo’s (6 W. 24th St.). Mitgang continues as chef/partner at Crave Fishbar, and he and Kristel also own South Edison in Montauk. • Chef/restaurateur Marc Forgione established a new steakhouse, American Cut (363 Greenwich St.), close to his nearby eponymous spot in Tribeca. • Restaurateurs Francine Stephens and Andrew Feinberg gave Danny Amend responsibility for the menu at Marco’s (295 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn). He previously worked at their Franny’s. • Former Time-Warner chief Richard Parsons and his wife, Laura, teamed up with exec chef Alexander Smalls to establish The Cecil (210 W. 118th St.) and Minton’s (206 W. 118th St.), a new dining spot and supper club in the original location of the famous jazz club Minton’s Playhouse. The first opened in September, the second in October. Smalls previously owned Cafe Beulah and Shoebox Cafe. • Hok Chin helms the kitchen at Reserve Cut, the kosher steakhouse that replaced Sho Shaun Hergatt in the Setai Wall Street (40 Broad St.), which is owned by Albert Allaham, who has a Brooklyn butcher shop. The chef was formerly at Della Femina in East Hampton. • The Writing Room (1703 Second Ave.) moved into the spot that long belonged to Elaine’s. The chef, Lucas Billheimer, was previously at Parlor Steakhouse. • Chef/partners Mike Price and Joe Campanaro, who own Market Table, opened the seafood restaurant The Clam (420 Hudson St.). • The cuisine of Venice has inspired chef Chris Jaeckle and veteran restaurateur and Italian wine expert Chris Cannon to team up and establish All’onda (22 E. 13th St.). Jaeckle was formerly exec chef at Ai Fiori, part of the Altamarea Group that Cannon divorced in 2011. • Chef Amanda Freitag launched her new career as both a restaurant owner and chef in the yet-to-be-named spot where Chelsea’s iconic Empire Diner once stood (210 10th Ave.). She has been concentrating on her television career since leaving The Harrison in 2010. • Chef Hugue Dufour and his wife, Sarah Obraitis, owners of M. Wells Dinette inside the museum MoMA PS1, launched their second spot, M. Wells Steakhouse (43-15 Crescent St., Long Island City). After entering through a courtyard cafe, diners can observe live trout swimming in a tank and watch their meats cooking on a wood-burning grill. • Qi Union Square, of the three sister restaurants that include Qi Bangkok Eatery and Qi Thai Grill (Williamsburg) closed for renovations and reopened in September as Qi Esarn Thai Kitchen (31 W. 14th St.). Qi Restaurant Group co-owner Ahm Bopit is joined by Qi Esarn Thai Kitchen co-owner Claire Handleman and consulting chef of all three restaurants, Pichet Ong.
Owners Ellen Yin, Roberto Sella, and chef Eli Kulp opened High Street on Market (308 Market St., Philadelphia) in September. Kulp previously served as chef de cuisine at Torrisi Italian Specialties in NYC. • Chef/baker Laura Viegas established Cook and Shaker (2301 E. Albert St., Philadelphia), a comfort food spot with beers and cocktails, in September. She was previously at the White Dog Cafe. • In October, new owners, developer Randy Feinberg and David Eckelmeyer reopened Brittingham’s (640 E. Germantown Pike, Lafayette Hill), after an extensive renovation. Exec chef Joseph Frost, who worked at Brasserie Perrier in Philadelphia, is in charge of the menu.
L’Entrecôte de Paris (1053 SE First Ave, Miami) opened in September with chef Vincent Thilloy wearing the toque. He formerly ran the kitchen at Berkeley Beach Café. It is modeled after the original concept, which was introduced in Geneva in 1912, and many others have followed throughout the world. • Another spot specializing in steak, Porcão Farm to Grill (901 South Miami Ave. Miami) opened in October, with Jeff O’Neill wearing the toque. He previously worked at The Dining Room at The Villa by Barton G in Miami Beach. • Soulful Southern dishes dominate the menu at Swank Southern Kitchen (4196 S. University Dr., Davie), which owner Oscar Ferreira of Soi Chinese Kitchen opened in October. Chefs Angel Vergara and Isramil Almonte, previously at Soi Chinese Kitchen, are in charge of the menu.
Chef Michael Sheerin and restaurateur Dan Rosenthal joined forces to establish Cicchetti (661 N. St. Clair St.), slated to open this month. In July, Sheerin left Trenchermen, which he originally founded with his brother Patrick. Rosenthal is the creator of Trattoria No. 10, Poag Mahone’s, and Harry Caray’s Italian Steakhouse and Bar.
Chef Brad Sorenson’s new restaurant NO VA (87 Rainey St., Austin) opened in September. The name means “doesn’t go” in Spanish. He previously worked at Asti Trattoria.
Root Down, a second outpost of Justin Cucci’s original restaurant which is located in a converted gas station, opened at Denver International Airport in September. Cucci says the design of the 4,000-square-foot space was inspired by “Eero Saarinen’s inconic TWA Flight Center at JFK Airport, built at a time when travel was still exciting and sexy.” A chandelier fashioned from 100 recycled globes shines light on the global menu offerings. Root Down is a jazz term meaning to get down to the root of a song. • Elway’s opened a branch of its popular steakhouse at DIA earlier this summer. • The Renaissance Denver Downtown City Center Hotel is scheduled to open around the first of the year in the historic Colorado National Bank building.
Restaurateur Jesse Gomez established Mercado on West Third (7910 W 3rd. St.) in September, giving responsibility for the menu to chef Jose Acevedo from his Mercado in Santa Monica, and of the bar to Cesar Arenas, who was at Las Perlas. • Hans Röckenwagner, owner of Röckenwagner Bakery and 3 Square Café, is slated to open Cafe Röckenwagner (1168 S. Barrington Ave.), this month. Kayson Chong, corporate chef at Röckenwagner’s other two spots, is exec chef. Stumptown provides the coffee.
Partners Eduardo Rallo, architect/restaurateur Juan Garduño, and Alessandra Bonisoli launched La Urbana (661 Divisadero St., San Francisco) in September. Exec chef Benjamin Klein and chef de cuisine Julio Aguilera took charge of the kitchen. Klein was previously at Mala Ocean Tavern in Maui, HI, and Aguilera was at Saison. • Except for owner/architect Howard Backen, French Blue (1429 Main St., St. Helena) got a new management team in September, with chef Brandon Sharp formerly of Solage Calistoga moving in to work with his longtime chef de cuisine, Ryder Zetts, to create a new menu. Sharp replaced chef/partner Philip Wang, whose new position is not yet known.
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