Andrew Thomas Lee
Vintage books and kitchen tools adorn St. Cecilia in Atlanta.
magnify Click image to view more.

Birth Announcements: March 2014

Juliet Glass - March 2014

ATLANTA
The latest project for Ford Fry (chef/owner of JCT.Kitchen & Bar and No. 246, among others) is St. Cecilia, which debuted in January at 3455 Peachtree Road. At the 160 seater, Fry and executive chef Brian Horn (a vet of JCT.Kitchen & Bar) focus on the simple foods of coastal southern Italy—think handmade pastas, roasted fish, and crudi. Italianate desserts are by pastry chef Chrysta Poulos (who decamped from Fry’s King + Duke). Apps ($9 to $14): hamachi crudo with pomegranate, pistachios, and sunchokes; salt cod beignets with caper aïoli and lemon. Mains ($9 to $37): apple/mascarpone ravioli with Maine lobster and cracked pepper; wood-roasted swordfish with olives, garlic, and tomato. Desserts ($8): Nutella torta with burnt milk gelato and Nutella powder; house-made ricotta bombolini (doughnuts) with cinnamon/honey syrup and citrus.

NEW YORK CITY
Bill Telepan, chef/owner of the epon­y­mously named Upper West Side eatery, takes his greenmarket cooking downtown with the debut of Telepan Local (329 Greenwich Street), where he serves American small plates in a 102 seat chic farmhouse setting (sleek subway tiles meet recycled wood paneling). Executive chef is Joel Javier (previously Telepan sous chef), and pastry chef is Larissa Raphael (who also handles sweets uptown). Vegetable small plates ($8 to $12): Brussels sprouts and fingerling potatoes with a coddled egg; fried watercress with cashews and chile oil. Meat & fish small plates ($12 to $16): corned tongue with grilled cabbage and Russian dressing; escargots with black pepper, chickpeas, and mint. Desserts ($10): coconut layer cake; peanut butter/chocolate/pretzel sundae.

WASHINGTON, D.C.
Iron Gate, opened first in 1923 and the capital’s oldest continuously operating restaurant until it closed in 2010, reopened in December under the direction of the Alexandria, Virginia–based Neighborhood Restaurant Group (Birch & Barley and Rustico, to name a few). The romantic, rambling space consists of a 60-foot carriageway converted into a 16-seat bar, a 50 seat courtyard overhung with grapevines (and a protective awning for cooler weather), and a 48 seat intimate dining room (originally horse stables). At the helm in the kitchen is Tony Chittum, recently of NRG’s Vermilion, whose Greek/Italian cuisine can be enjoyed à la carte in the bar and patio or as four- or six-course tasting menus ($50 and $75, respectively) in the dining room. Desserts are by NRG executive pastry chef Tiffany MacIsaac. Tasting starters: baby beets with stracciatella, green apple, and hazelnuts; caramelized ricotta gnocchi with trumpet mushrooms, mascarpone, and garlic bread crumbs. Tasting fish & meat: scallop crudo with fennel, cara cara oranges, chiles, and sea urchin; lamb with shell beans, braised collards, and mustard. Tasting desserts: gianduja terrine with hazelnut ice cream and Frangelico caramel; Campari panna cotta with winter citrus, basil, and pistachios.

MONROE, LOUISIANA
Chef Cory (Cotton) Bahr puts an Italian twist on North Delta cuisine at his second restaurant, Nonna (11 Hudson Lane), opened in January. The dining room seats 70, while the spacious courtyard, outfitted with blue-striped Mediterranean beach cabanas, a bubbling fountain, and a bocce court, accommodates another 30. Apps ($9 to $12): pork/veal meatballs with creamy polenta and red gravy; grilled sardines with red onion, chiles, oregano, and lemon. Mains ($15 to $23): fried oyster carbonara; pork osso buco with creamy polenta and braised greens. Desserts ($8): olive oil cake with grapes, limoncello cream, and vanilla gelato; chocolate/hazelnut cheesecake.

Send news to JulietGlass@gmail.com.