On the cover: F&B: A powerful attraction. The beach club at Amanpulo in the Philippines.
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The April Issue Is Here

April 2014

F&B 2014: A Sense of Place

Pilot Light: …And I’ll Take a Room on the Side

Front Burner
Insider news and updates from around the world
Underground Growth
Bring It on, Belgium: America’s First Trappist Ale
Brunch, Italian Style
Eat, Drink, Sleep
And the Winner Is…

Deep Dish
Chefs’ comings and goings

Birth Announcements
A roundup of restaurant openings

Whisk Around the World
Global restaurant and hotel dish

Say Cheese
Our paparazzi’s portfolio

Wine Notes
New wine releases

Stayin’ Alive
A New York City bar breathes new life into disco-era drinks

Quantifiable Quaffs
Drink like a Brit at Langham Place NYC

The Curious Chef
Questions raised? Linton Hopkins supplies the answers

Views with Rooms
Stellar locations count for Aman resorts

A Fresh-Ground Cafe Culture
Brewing a European vibe in Manhattan

Friend of the Farmers
Longtime steward keeps Garmercy’s larder well supplied

I Always Travel with My Mother
Wherever bakers go, their starters are sure to follow

A Sense of Plate
Cultures resonate on the table

Recipe File
A sheaf of recipes drawn from this issue
Maitake Mushrooms with Braised Peanuts, Pommes Dauphine & Brussels Sprouts
Sunchoke Custard with Sea Urchin & Scallions
Poached Eggs with Foie Gras, Bacon & Johnnycakes
Trout with Sea Island Red Pea Hoppin’ John & Benne Cream
Grilled Mackerel with Fairytale Eggplant, Corn & Calamari
Chicken Meatballs with Polenta & Tomato Ragoût
Chess Pie with Toasted Swiss Meringue, Almond Streusel, Spice Oil & Juniper Ganache
Catfish & Grits with Geechee Gravy

Silver Spoon Award: The Brennan Family

Meet This Month's Contributors

Bryan Miller
“Modesto Batista represents the legions of anonymous operatives who keep the city’s gastronomic locomotives chugging at full throttle, and unfailingly on schedule,” says former New York Times restaurant critic Bryan Miller, who tailed Gramercy Tavern’s legendary steward in “Friend of the Farmers”. “As I tagged along with him for a day at the Union Square Greenmarket, I was amazed to see the respect he was accorded by everyone, as if he were some sort of visiting dignitary. Feeding the voracious maw of Gramercy Tavern takes a lot of produce, and Modesto and I made that walk to and from the market four or five times during the day. You might call Modesto a know-it-all, because he does know it all: plumbing, heating, electrical work, carpentry, flooring, and widget fixing of all kinds.”

Jeri Gottleib
In researching “I Always Travel with My Mother”, Gottlieb learned a lot about baking wild yeast artisan bread: “I’m up from almost zero going in, having failed miserably at that module during my time in culinary school.” While interviewing the bakers featured, she’s delighted to “discover exactly how a few of them give high fiber bread a whole new meaning, and also where to score some excellent starter without having to make it myself (and if you’re thinking ‘airport bathrooms, duh,’ you’d be right).” While really good at eating bread, Gottlieb has a background in pastry—having previously owned a small bakery of the birthday and cupcake variety—and now takes breaks from toddler-wrangling and homework-checking to “chat with truly formidable characters in the food world and write about them with dumbstruck awe.”

John Kessler
Kessler is a food writer and restaurant critic for the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, where his work has earned both National Headliner and James Beard awards, and has been reprinted nine times in Best Food Writing. A former chef, he looks forward to any opportunity to get back in a professional kitchen. “It was a pleasure to hang out with Linton [Hopkins] in his kitchen and see how much of his effort goes into cooking projects, such as hand-paddling butter, that make dining at Restaurant Eugene such a singular experience,” says Kessler, author of this month’s “The Curious Chef”. “Linton is such an intellectual, left-brain kind of guy that all our discussions of Southern food and culture turned into abstractions pretty quickly. But once I saw him working in the kitchen, I understood that was the source of his strength and talent. He’s like a scientist, constantly experimenting, constantly positing new questions.”