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The September Issue Is Here
September 2014
Pilot Light: Wonders Never Cease
Front Burner
Insider news and updates from around the world
• NOLA’s Brooklyn
• Let Me Count the Ways
• Trompe L’Oeil Desserts
• Don’t Pocket the Flask
• Spanish for Sandwich
• Pastry Buzz
• Change Is the New Normal
Birth Announcements
A roundup of restaurant openings
Deep Dish
Chefs’ comings and goings
Whisk Around the World
Global restaurant and hotel dish
Say Cheese
Our paparazzi’s portfolio
Wine Notes
New wine releases
Faith in Foie
Chefs stand up to the ban in California
Snap Pea Sensei
Calvin Lamborn, pioneering peas chefs love
Timeless Tulum
Cooking from the heart at Hartwood
A Modernist Proposal
Nathan Myhrvold cooks a magic menu for women chefs
Harmonic Convergence
Dai Jianjun showcases Zhejiang’s culinary traditions
Fall/Winter Menu Preview
Five chefs warm up to the cold
Recipe File
A sheaf of recipes drawn from this issue
• Bigeye Tuna with Heirloom Squash, Sugar Snap Peas, Yellow Squash Puree, Mint & Taggiasca Olive Oil
• Turbot Farci with Egg, Pumpkin Seeds, Charred Leeks & Champagne Sauce
• Lamb Neck & Sweetbreads with Yeasted Grits, Ramps & Mustard Flower Pistou
• Eight-Treasures Doufu
• “Sunflower” Puree with Sea Urchin & Toasted Sunflower Seeds
• Better Than Milk
Silver Spoon Award: Richard Bloch
Meet the Contributors
Sophie Brissaud
An award-winning Parisienne writer, journalist, translator, photographer, food stylist, tea sommelier, and one-time television stunt chef, Sophie Brissaud meets food activist Dai Jianjun (A Dai) in “Harmonic Convergence.” “Having first read about A Dai in an article by Fuchsia Dunlop in a 2008 issue of The New Yorker, I saw him as a perfect subject for a documentary film I was writing about ‘environmentally aware’ chefs all over the world. The meeting, which took place in December 2010, while a thick coat of snow was covering the Zhejiang mountains, proved to be more than I expected. In A Dai, I found a friend, a brother, and pretty much a role model through whom I evaluate the sincerity of all ‘green’ food nowadays—should I say ‘of all food?’ For I also found a fascinating culinary culture, which I never tire exploring.”
Carolyn Jung
“As someone who was laid off from a down-sizing newspaper six years ago,” Carolyn Jung—author of “Snap Pea Sensei”—says, “I could so relate to Calvin Lamborn’s defiance in the wake of being forced to retire from a company long before he was ready to do so. I only hope that I have half his energy and gumption when I am his age. From the moment you meet him, you know this is a man who is dedicated to what he does, and whose life’s work has given him enormous joy and immeasurable satisfaction.” A James Beard award-winning writer and a former food writer/editor for the San Jose Mercury News, Jung also penned this month’s “Fall/Winter Menu Preview,” “A Modernist Proposal,” and “Faith in Foie.”
Jennifer Causey
Southern born and raised Jennifer Causey has been living in Brooklyn, New York, for the past 10 years, specializing in food and lifestyle photography. Living in “a constant state of wanderlust,” she loves food and particularly enjoys traveling and exploring new places. Luckily, her recent assignment to photograph Rick Bishop and his produce at Mountain Sweet Berry Farm for this month’s cover and “Snap Pea Sensei” encompassed both avocations. “I was a little worried driving up to the farm from Brooklyn, as I passed through a few rainstorms. Luckily, the skies cleared by the time I arrived, leaving the fields muddy (along with my shoes), but the pea plants glistening. I enjoyed listening to Rick talk about his beautiful plants with pride in his voice. He truly cares about bringing delicious food to people.” Causey’s work can also be seen in Condé Nast Traveler, Garden & Gun, Martha Stewart Living, Cooking Light, and Chronicle Books, amongst others.