This Week, a Tip of the Hat to the Inimitable Jean-Louis Palladin
Jacqueline Sainsbury - February 17th, 2014
This week, Food Arts is celebrating the famously exuberant chef’s legacy with articles and videos wherein the likes of Eric Ripert, Michel Richard, Ariane Daguin, Drew Nieporent, and Christian Delouvrier, among others, pay tribute. On Wednesday, prepare for a feast big enough to match Palladin's personality, with recipes for lamprey à la bordelaise, mulard duck hearts stuffed with foie gras, plus six more courses.
“I knew that Jean-Louis Palladin was an influential chef for his spectacular melding of traditional Gascon food with post–nouvelle cuisine innovation," notes former New York Times restaurant critic Bryan Miller. "What I learned while doing research for Jean-Louis Lives! was that he was one of the very early pioneers of sourcing the very best American products and encouraging producers to work with chefs. Every time I eat a diver scallop, I tip my hat to his memory.”
Check the home page each day for the latest installment and share your memories on the Food Arts Facebook page.
…As well he should in the hearts and minds of everyone wielding knife and tweezers. Yet some 12 years after his passing, this obsessed, hard-charging, large-living chef, so seminal and influential, barely registers in today’s now-and-new culinary universe. His last name was Palladin, by the way. Bryan Miller restores the institutional memory of a great one.
Remembering Jean-Louis Palladin
Eric Ripert, Michel Richard, Ariane Daguin, and Drew Nieporent share memories and lessons from the prurient Palladin in this video, Remembering Jean-Louis Palladin.
The Man Who Started a Movement
In a 1970s world of frozen food and imports, French chef Jean-Louis Palladin chose to look in another direction. His new back yard—from sea to shining sea—became his playground.
Cooking with Julia & Jean-Louis
In 1994, Jean-Louis Palladin stepped behind the camera to appear on Julia Child: Cooking with Master Chefs. His show, “Foie Gras with Jean-Louis Palladin,” was the first in the 16 part series.
Greatest Chef of Our Time?
Jimmy Sneed remembers his friend, chef, and co-conspirator Jean-Louis Palladin.
Silver Spoon Award: Jean-Louis Palladin
In September 1996, Food Arts awarded the Silver Spoon award to Palladin as the gregarious, restive, and inventive chef whose marriage of French rigor and soul to American foodstuffs stretched the parameters of this country's palate.
Dining with Jean-Louis
We've selected a menu prepared by Jean-Louis Palladin from his book (with Fred J. Maroon), Jean-Louis: Cooking with the Seasons. It reflects Palladin's French origins as well as his embrace of American ingredients.
Spring: Menu Two:
• Cauliflower Stuffed with Sweetbreads & Mulard Duck with Broccoli Flowerets & Broccoli Cream Sauce
• Sea Scallops & Cucumbers on the Half Shell with Cucumber Sauce
• Baked Potatoes Stuffed with Louisiana Crawfish, Lobster Mousseline & Potato Mousseline with Lobster Coral Sauce
• Mulard Duck Hearts Stuffed with Foie Gras in Nests of Tricolored Pasta with Sage Sauce
• Lamprey à la Bordelaise
• Stuffed Hen with Vegetables, Stuffed Cabbage Leaves & Gratin of Macaroni
• Banana & Chocolate Mousse Cake, Grand Marnier Ice Cream in a Hazelnut Cornet & Fresh Fruit
• Cactus Pear Sorbet with Cactus Pear Sauce, Blood Orange Mousse & Passion Fruit Soufflé with Passion Fruit Sauce
Braised Sweetbreads Wrapped in Black Truffles with Celeriac/Cream Sauce
"What an extraordinary thing is the truffle, the caviar of the forest! … White truffles have a strong taste of garlic, and Monsieur [Jacques] Pebeyre taught me a trick: if you rub a little garlic on the knife when you cut a black truffle, it will enhance the flavor and make it taste more like a white one." —Adapted from Jean-Louis: Cooking with the Seasons by Jean-Louis Palladin
Sautéed Swordfish & Osetra Cakes with Caviar Sauce
"Swordfish is very tricky to cook—a few seconds too long, and it’s ruined. The taste is beautiful, but a little plain; combining it with caviar gives it just the twist it needs because caviar is salty and has a lot of iodine." —Adapted from Jean-Louis: Cooking with the Seasons by Jean-Louis Palladin