Pierre Mosca

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Squab Gelée with “Oysters” & Young Vegetables

Alain Chapel and Jean-Francois Abert, La Cuisine C'est Beaucoup Plus Que Des Recettes / October 2011

For 6 servings

Squab gelée:
• 1 Tbsp. (14 g) unsalted butter
• 8 squab carcasses
• 2 (150 g) leeks, finely chopped
• 1 (100 g) onion, finely chopped
• 1 sm. (100 g) carrot, finely chopped
• 2/3 cup (50 g) mushrooms de Paris, chopped
• 10 1/2 cups chicken stock
• 1 bouquet garni
• salt
• black pepper, freshly ground
• 3 star anise
• 1 lg. egg white
• sheet gelatin, bloomed in cold water

Heat butter in large rondeau set over medium heat; cook until brown; add 4 squab carcasses, 1 leek, 1/2 onion, 1/2 carrot, and 1/3 cup mushrooms; cook until vegetables are softened; deglaze pan with 10 cups stock, scraping up any brown bits from bottom of pan; add remaining 4 squab carcasses, 1 leek, 1/2 onion, 1/2 carrot, and 1/3 cup mushrooms; add remaining 1/2 cup stock and bouquet garni; season; cook 1 hour; add star anise; strain through fine chinois into clean rondeau; set over medium heat; clarify with egg white; stir in gelatin (1 sheet per 1 cup liquid); remove from heat; pour into baking sheet (jelly should be thick); refrigerate until set; reserve.

Assembly:
• olive oil
• red wine vinegar
• salt
• black pepper, freshly ground
• 2  1 lb. (500 g) squabs, poached and sliced
• 12 squab hearts, cooked
• 6  1 1/2 oz. (40 g) fillets rouget, cooked
• 12 new carrots with green leafy tops left on and blanched
• 6 new onions with green tops left on and blanched
• 6 new leeks, blanched
• 2 Tbsps. pea soup
• 6 young beet greens, blanched
• 12 chicken de Bresse oysters, cooked and cut from carcass

  1. Whisk 2 parts oil to 1 part vinegar in small bowl until emulsified; season; reserve.

  2. To serve, place 3 Tbsps. jelly on each plate; arrange 3 pieces squab, 2 squab hearts, and 1 rouget fillet on plate; nestle vegetables around meats; drizzle vinaigrette around; place 2 chicken oysters on each plate next to fish.

What to drink: Henri Giraud Champagne Cuvée Aÿ Grand Cru Fût de Chêne 2000 Food Arts Note: In his book, Alain Chapel noted, “Mon plat favori.” (My favorite dish.)