Eric Wagner

magnify Click image to view more.

Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Yukon Gold/Sweet Potato Gratin & Wilted Spinach

Anne Kearny, Rue Dumaine / September 2011

For 8 to 10 servings (requires advance preparation)

House-cured pancetta:
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 4 Tbsps. kosher salt
• 3 Tbsps. brown sugar
• 2 Tbsps. black pepper, coarsely ground
• 2 Tbsps. juniper berries, roughly chopped
• 6 sprigs thyme, roughly chopped
• 4 bay leaves, crushed
• 2 1/2 tsps. pink salt (sel rose)
• 1 tsp. ground nutmeg
• 1 4-lb. pork belly, halved

Combine all ingredients except pork in a bowl; rub mixture all over pork; place in plastic airtight container; cover; refrigerate 4 days, flipping and rubbing mixture in daily; remove from container; hang in refrigerator until firm (about 5 days); reserve in refrigerator.

Yukon Gold/sweet potato gratin:
• 2 lbs. Yukon Gold potatoes, sliced 1/16" to 1/32" thick
• 1 cup heavy cream
• kosher salt
• white pepper, freshly ground
• 8 Tbsps. Parmesan, freshly grated
• 1 1/2 lbs. sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/16" to 1/32" thick

  1. Heat oven to 350°F.

  2. Place Yukon Gold potato slices, slightly overlapping, in a layer over entire bottom of 9" by 9" metal baking dish lined with parchment paper; drizzle 2 Tbsps. cream over top; season; sprinkle with 1 Tbsp. cheese; top with a layer of sweet potato slices, slightly overlapping pieces; drizzle 2 Tbsps. cream over top; season; sprinkle with 1 Tbsp. cheese; repeat layers, alternating potatoes and sweet potatoes to create 4 layers potatoes and 3 layers sweet potatoes; place baking dish on half baking sheet; bake until potatoes are tender when poked with a knife (60 to 75 minutes); remove from oven; reserve (keep warm).

Dijon reduction:
• 2 Tbsps. canola oil
• 1 cup onion, finely chopped
• 1 clove garlic, smashed
• 1 1/2 cups Chardonnay
• 1/2 cup Dijon mustard
• 2 sprigs thyme
• 1 sprig parsley
• 1 bay leaf
• 5 black peppercorns
• 4 cups roasted chicken stock
• 2 cups veal demi-glace

Heat oil in small sauté pan set over medium-low heat; add onion and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until tender; add wine, mustard, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, and peppercorns; bring to a boil; reduce by 50 percent; add stock and demi-glace; bring to a boil; reduce to 2 cups; remove from heat; strain through fine chinoise into small saucepan; reserve.

Pork:
• 1/4 cup onion, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup parsley leaves, packed
• 3 Tbsps. canola oil
• 2 Tbsps. Dijon mustard
• 2 Tbsps. unsalted butter
• 1 clove garlic
• 1 1/2 tsps. fresh thyme leaves
• 1/8 tsp. white pepper, freshly ground, plus more for pork
• 2 1/2 lbs. pork tenderloin, fat, sinew, and silver skin trimmed
• kosher salt

  1. Place all ingredients except pork and salt in a blender; blend 2 minutes; rub pork with marinade; place in airtight container; cover; refrigerate 4 hours to overnight.

  2. Heat a grill to high.

  3. Remove pork from marinade; season; grill to medium; remove from grill; place on serving platter; let stand 15 minutes; slice into 1 1/2" thick medallions; reserve (keep warm).

Assembly:
• 3 Tbsps. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
• 1 1/2 cups shallots, cut into thin julienne
• kosher salt
• white pepper, freshly ground
• 3/4 tsp. thyme leaves
• 2 Tbsps. unsalted butter
• spinach (for serving)

  1. Heat oven to 350°F.

  2. Slice 1/4 lb. house-cured pancetta very thinly; cut slices into 1/8" by 1/8" squares; place on baking sheet lined with parchment paper; bake until brown and crispy; remove from oven; place pancetta in a sieve placed over a bowl; let stand 20 minutes to let additional fat run off; place on paper towels; cool slightly; reserve.

  3. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in small sauté pan set over medium-low heat; add shallots; cook, stirring occasionally, until very tender; season; add thyme; cover with a lid; remove from heat; let stand 5 minutes; stir in warm pancetta; season; reserve (keep warm).

  4. Bring Dijon reduction to a boil; stir in butter; season; reserve (keep warm).

  5. Heat remaining 2 Tbsps. oil in another sauté pan set over high heat; add spinach; cook until wilted; season; remove from heat; reserve (keep warm).

  6. To serve, cut gratin evenly into squares; place a square on each serving plate; squeeze any water out of spinach with tongs; place on right side up against gratin; place pork medallion up onto spinach; place another piece turned onto its side on top of gratin; spoon sauce over pork; drizzle oil over relish; season; mound on top of pork.

What to drink: Albert Mann Riesling Alsace Cuvée Albert 2008