Peter Taylor
Duck Consommé from Stephen Devereaux Greene of Herons at The Umstead Hotel and Spa in Cary, North Carolina.
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Duck Consommé

Herons at The Umstead Hotel and Spa in Cary, North Carolina, Steven Devereaux Green - January/February 2012

For 8 servings

Duck Stock:

  • 4 whole duck carcasses
  • 2 whole oranges
  • 1 yellow onion, cut into large pieces
  • 2 carrots, cut into large pieces
  • 1 bunch scallions, roughly chopped
  • 1 bunch cilantro, roughly chopped
  • 4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
  • 1 knob ginger, roughly chopped
  • 1 stalk lemongrass, trimmed and rough exterior removed
  • 10 cassia buds
  • 3 star anise
  • 6 black peppercorns
  • 1 Ceylon cinnamon stick
  1. Heat oven to 400°F.

  2. Place duck carcasses on baking sheet lined with parchment paper; roast until brown (about 30 minutes); remove from oven; place in very large pot; add 3 gals. water and all remaining ingredients; bring to a boil; reduce heat to low; cook until stock is full of flavor (about 6 hours); remove from heat; strain through fine chinois into large container; discard solids; cool; cover with plastic wrap; reserve in refrigerator.

Consommé:

  • 1 skinless duck breast
  • 6 lg. egg whites
  • 1/4 cup leeks, light and pale green parts only, finely chopped
  • 1/4 cup carrot, chopped
  • 1/4 cup celery, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • white soy sauce
  • mirin
  1. Process duck breast, egg whites, leeks, carrot, celery, and garlic in a processor on high speed 1 minute; reserve.

  2. Heat 6 quarts duck stock in a stockpot until room temperature; gently whisk in egg white mixture; cook, whisking, until mixture starts to solidify on top of stock; once raft has completely formed, make an air pocket in center; simmer consommé until completely clarified (about 30 minutes); strain through fine chinois into clean pot; discards solids; season consommé with soy sauce and mirin; reserve (keep warm).

Pomegranate jam:

  • 1 cup pomegranate juice
  • 2 Tbsps. pomegranate molasses
  • Ultra-Tex 8 (or other instant food starch)
  • 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds
  1. Mix juice and pomegranate molasses in a bowl; whisk in enough Ultra-Tex 8 to give mixture a smooth jam-like consistency; cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate 30 minutes.

  2. Strain jam through fine chinois into clean bowl; stir in pomegranate seeds; cover with plastic wrap; reserve in refrigerator.

Orange puree:

  • 2 navel oranges, peeled, segmented, and pith and seeds removed
  • 1 Tbsp. orange oil

Puree oranges in a blender until smooth and silky; with motor running, gradually add oil; blend until smooth; place puree in squeeze bottle with fine tip; reserve in refrigerator.

Duck:

  • 2 Tbsps. grapeseed oil
  • 1 cup shiitake mushrooms, minced
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 shallot, minced
  • 1 tsp. ginger, minced
  • 6 duck legs, skinned
  • 3 oz. lean pork loin
  • 3 oz. bacon
  • 2 oz. pork fat
  • kosher salt
  • 2 Tbsps. cilantro, chopped
  • 2 Tbsps. scallions, white parts only, chopped
  • 2 Tbsps. oyster sauce
  1. Heat broiler.

  2. Refrigerate parts to medium die grinder until very cold; reserve.

  3. Heat oil in sauté pan set over high heat; add shiitake mushrooms, garlic, shallot, and ginger; cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and fragrant; remove from heat; cool completely.

  4. Using chilled die, grind duck legs, pork loin, bacon, and pork fat into cold bowl set in large bowl of ice; add mushroom mixture; season; stir in cilantro, scallions, and oyster sauce (sauté a little in a skillet to taste); shape into dime-sized meatballs; place on baking sheet lined with parchment paper; broil meatballs, turning, until brown on all asides but still medium-rare in center (about 5 minutes); remove from broiler; reserve (keep warm).

Assembly:

  • 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
  • 1 Tbsp. canola oil
  • 1 cup brown honshimeji mushrooms
  • 1/2 cup white soy sauce
  • 8 orange suprêmes, sliced into thirds (for serving)
  • baby bok choy, cut into julienne (for serving)
  • 5 scallions, white parts only, cut into small pieces (for serving)
  • coriander blossoms (for serving)
  • small African blue basil leaves (for serving)
  1. Heat butter in sauté pan set over medium heat; cook until just starting to brown; add oil and mushrooms; cook, stirring, until softened; add soy sauce; cook until pan is dry; remove from heat; reserve (keep warm).

  2. To serve, squeeze 3 to 5 dots orange puree on bottom of each serving bowl; place 3 duck meatballs on top of puree; place 3 pieces orange sûpreme pieces around; spoon pomegranate jam over meatballs and around plates; scatter bok choy and scallions around; garnish meatballs with coriander blossoms and blue basil; pour consommé tableside.

What to drink: Patricia Green Pinot Noir Reserve Willamette Valley 2010