Renée Comet
Lobster with Apple, Black Olive & Carrot/Lobster Sabayon
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Lobster with Apple, Black Olive & Carrot/Lobster Sabayon

Tony Conte, The Oval Room / March 2011

For 4 servings (requires advance preparation)

Lobster:
• 4  1 1/4-lb. Maine lobsters
• salt

  1. Place lobsters in hotel pan; make enough brine of water and 3 percent salt to cover lobsters; add to pan; cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate 24 hours.

Black olive oil:
• 3/4 cup plus 2 1/2 Tbsps. olive oil
• 3/4 cup plus 2 Tbsps. dried black olives
• 1 tsp. red pepper flakes
• 2/5 tsp. fleur de sel

  1. Whisk all ingredients in a bowl until smooth; reserve.

Apple:
• 1 honey crisp apple, cored
• 1 tsp. olive oil
• 1 sprig thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/8 tsp. salt

  1. Place all ingredients in vacuum-sealable plastic food bag; vacuum seal; cook sous-vide, maintaining water temperature at 185°F, 30 minutes; remove bag from water; place in ice water bath; cool; remove bag from water; remove apple from bag; discard aromatics; cut apple into brunoise; place in airtight container; cover; reserve.

Cider gel:
• 2 cups apple cider
• 1 honey crisp apple, roughly chopped
• 1/2 tsp. black peppercorns
• 1/2 tsp. allspice
• 1/2 tsp. cloves
• 1/2 tsp. nutmeg, crushed
• 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
• salt
• cider vinegar, preferably by Jean-Marc Montegottero (see note below)
• agar-agar

  1. Bring cider, apple, peppercorns, allspice, cloves, nutmeg, and cayenne pepper to a boil in a pot; reduce heat to medium-high; simmer 15 minutes; remove from heat; cool; strain through fine chinois into a bowl; discard solids; season; add vinegar; whisk in 1 percent agar-agar; pour into hotel pan; let stand until set.

  2. Cut into brunoise; reserve.

Carrot/lobster sabayon:
• 2 1/4 cups carrot juice
• 1/4 cup lemongrass
• 2 Tbsps. mint leaves
• 2/3 cup lobster gellan block, cut into small dice (see note below)
• salt
• fresh lime juice

  1. Bring juice, lemongrass, and mint to a boil in a saucepan; remove from heat; cool; strain through fine chinois into a bowl, pushing on solids to extract all liquid; cool.

  2. Place 1 4/5 cups carrot base in a blender; add lobster gellan; puree until smooth; season; add juice; strain through fine chinois into a pot; heat until warm; place in whipper; charge with 1 CO2 charger; reserve.

Assembly:
• salt
• cayenne pepper
• olive oil
• 1/2 napa cabbage, cut into chiffonade and blanched
• 1 tsp. jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped

  1. Heat oven to 500°F.

  2. Remove lobsters from brine; separate claws from body; bring a pot of water to a boil; blanch claws 7 minutes; remove with slotted spoon; shock in ice water bath; place on platter; blanch bodies 1 minute; shock in ice water bath; remove claw and body meat from shells; discard shells.

  3. Season meat with salt and cayenne pepper; place in a pot; cover with oil; cover with lid; place in oven; poach to desired doneness; remove from oven; reserve (keep warm).

  4. To serve, place 1/4 cup cider gel, 1/4 cup apple, and cabbage in a saucepan set over medium heat; cook until warmed through; reserve; remove lobster from oil; blot with paper towels to remove excess oil; place in center of warm serving bowls; spoon warmed cabbage mixture on top; drizzle 1 Tbsp. black olive oil on and around each lobster; garnish with jalapeño; dispense a dollop of sabayon on top.

What to drink: Prager Riesling Federspiel Trocken Wachau Weissenkirchen Steinriegl 2001 Food Arts Note: Vinegars produced by Jean-Marc Montegottero can be purchased from Mikuni Wild Harvest (866-862-9666); mikuniwildharvest.com.