"Sara Remington"
Geoduck with Cucumber Granita, Tapioca, Green Strawberries, Horseradish & Clam Dashi
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Geoduck with Cucumber Granita, Tapioca, Green Strawberries, Horseradish & Clam Dashi

Jason Fox, Commonwealth, San Francisco / July 2012

For 8 servings (requires advance preparation)

Pickled strawberries:
• 1 pint green strawberries
• 1 cup Champagne vinegar
• 2 1/3 tsps. granulated sugar
• 1/3 tsp. salt

  1. Place strawberries in large bowl; reserve.

  2. Bring vinegar, sugar, and salt to a boil in large saucepan; remove from heat; place in a bowl set in ice-water bath; cool; pour over berries; cover; reserve in refrigerator at least 1 day.

  3. Strain pickling liquid; discard; thinly slice starwberries; place in airtight container; cover; reserve.

Cucumber granita:
• 1 1/4 cups cucumber juice
• 1 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar
• 2 1/3 tsps. granulated sugar
• 1/3 tsp. salt

Mix ingredients in a hotel pan; cover with plastic wrap; freeze, scraping with a fork every few hours until mixture is frozen and light and fluffy; reserve in freezer.

Tapioca:
• 3/4 tsp. salt
• 2/3 cup tapioca

Bring 2 cups water and salt to a boil in large pot; add tapioca; cook until only a small white dot remains in center of each tapioca pearl (about 15 minutes); remove from heat; drain; rinse under cold running water; reserve.

Kombu/clam gelée:
• 1/3 oz. (2 tsps.) kombu
• 5 1/4 tsps. shaved katsuobushi (dried amberjack or bonito)
• 1 lb. Manila clams
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 3 Tbsps. white soy sauce
• 1/4 tsp. xanthan gum

  1. Bring 4 quarts water and kombu to a boil in large pot; reduce heat; simmer 1 hour; remove kombu; discard; stir in katsuobushi; simmer until lightly smoky tasting (about 5 minutes); strain through fine chinois into clean pot; discard katsuobushi.

  2. Add clams, wine, and soy sauce; bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium-high; simmer 30 minutes; remove from heat; drain into large bowl; reserve clams for another use; cover bowl with plastic wrap; refrigerate kombu/clam dashi until cold.

  3. Place 2 cups in a blender with xanthan gum; blend until lightly thickened; place in airtight container; refrigerate gelée until cold; reserve remaining kombu/clam dashi separately.

Horseradish spheres:
• 3/4 cup plus 4 1/2 Tbsps. whole milk
• 3 1/3 Tbsps. horseradish, grated
• 1/3 tsp. salt
• 1/2 cup crème fraîche
• 1/3 tsp. agar-agar
• 2 cups grapeseed oil, cold

  1. Bring milk, horseradish, and salt just to a boil in large saucepan; remove from heat; place in a blender; blend until smooth; add crème fraîche and agar-agar; blend until smooth; strain through fine chinois into a clean container; pour into squeeze bottle; reserve (keep warm).

  2. Place oil in a bowl; place bowl in larger bowl filled with ice; drop warm horseradish mixture into oil so small droplets form; strain gel spheres from oil; place in hotel pan; reserve.

Assembly:
• 1  1-lb. geoduck
• 24 very thin lengthwise slices cucumber
New Zealand spinach (Tetragonia tetragonoides) leaves
• small red shiso leaves
• wild radish blossoms
• chive oil
• sea salt

  1. Bring a pot of water to a boil; add geoduck; blanch 10 seconds; shock in ice water bath; remove geoduck from ice water bath; remove outer skin and shell from geoduck; discard; split siphon in half; wash; thinly slice siphon and body meat; place on a plate; dress with a little reserved kombu/clam dashi; reserve.

  2. To serve, divide tapioca and horseradish spheres among bowls; spoon kombu/clam gelée around each bowl; place 3 piles of geoduck into each bowl; roll cucumber slices into rounds; place 3 into each bowl; spoon cucumber granita around; place 5 strawberry slices in each bowl; garnish with spinach, shiso, and radish blossoms; drizzle chive oil around; sprinkle with sea salt.

What to drink: Koshihikari Echigo beer