Pear with Ginger/Spice Crumble, Honey Brittle, & Burnt Honey Cream
Eleven Madison Park, New York City, Angela Pinkerton / July 2012
For 4 servings
• 6 cups pears, peeled, cored, sliced, and reserved in acidulated water while cutting
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. citric acid
• 3 Tbsps. crème fraîche
• 1 Tbsp. lemon juice
• 1/4 tsp. salt
Cook pears, sugar, and citric acid in nonreactive saucepan over high heat until pears are soft (don’t let them burn).
Place in a blender; blend until smooth; strain through fine-mesh chinois into hotel pan; stir in crème fraîche, juice, and salt; place over large hotel pan filled with ice; let stand until cold; process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s directions; place in airtight container; reserve in freezer.
• 2 Tbsps. unsalted butter, cold
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. ground ginger
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp. salt
Heat oven to 325°F.
Pulse all ingredients in a processor until dough comes together into pebble-size clumps; scatter in a single layer on baking sheet lined with nonstick baking pad; bake until dry and golden (15 to 20 minutes); remove from oven; cool; reserve.
• 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
• 2 lg. Bosc pears, peeled, cored, diced, and reserved in acidulated water
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1/4 cup dry vermouth
Heat butter in sauté pan set over medium heat; drain pears; shake off as much water as possible; add to pan; cook until pears release their juices; whisk wine and vermouth in small bowl; add small amount to pan; cover with parchment paper round; cook until liquid is absorbed; repeat with remaining liquid, adding a little bit at a time, until liquid is all absorbed and pears are soft; remove from heat.
Place in a blender; blend until smooth; strain through fine chinois into clean container; cover; reserve.
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 4 Tbsps. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbsps. honey
• 1 1/2 tsps. salt
• 1/2 tsp. baking soda
Line 9" by 13" baking sheet with parchment paper; reserve.
Bring sugar, butter, honey, and 1/4 cup water to a boil in sauté pan over medium-high heat; cook to light caramel color; add salt and baking soda; mix well; remove from heat; immediately pour in a thin layer onto prepared baking sheet; cool; break into small pieces; place in airtight container; cover; reserve.
Burnt honey cream:
• 4 lg. egg yolks
• 3 Tbsps. granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup honey
• 1 1/2 cups half-and-half
• 2 sheets gelatin, bloomed in cold water until pliable
• 1 tsp. salt
Whisk egg yolks and sugar until mixture holds a ribbon when folded back onto itself; reserve.
Heat honey in a saucepan until dark caramel color; heat half-and-half in another saucepan; remove honey from heat; carefully whisk half-and-half into cooked honey; gradually pour honey mixture into egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly; pour egg yolk mixture back into pan; cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until mixture coats the back of a spoon and candy thermometer registers 183°F.
Squeeze excess moisture from gelatin; stir gelatin and salt into burnt honey cream; remove from heat; place burnt honey cream in a bowl set in ice water bath; cool; remove from ice water bath; cover with plastic wrap; reserve in refrigerator.
Poached Bosc pear ring:
• 4 cups white wine
• 1 cup pear nectar
• 3/4 cup honey
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 3 lemons, zest removed in lg. strips
• 2 lg. Bosc pears
Bring wine, nectar, honey, sugar, and lemon zest to a boil in large saucepan; once sugar dissolves, remove from heat.
Place 2 cups liquid in small saucepan; bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium; cook until reduced to 1 cup; remove from heat; place in a bowl set in ice water bath; cool; remove from ice water bath; reserve.
Place remaining 2 cups liquid in a saucepan set over low heat; bring to a bare simmer; slice pears into 1/2"-thick rounds; add to liquid; poach until just tender; remove from heat; cool; reserve.
Cut skin from slices with a ring cutter; cut out core with a small ring cutter; brush slices with cooled reduced poaching liquid syrup; place slices on baking sheet lined with acetate; place burnt honey cream in pastry bag fitted with round tip; pipe cream into center of each pear slice; reserve in refrigerator until cream sets.
• thin slices candied lemon, reserved in their cooking syrup
• thin slices candied ginger, reserved in their cooking syrup
• 2 Bosc pears
• 1/2 cup lemon juice, plus more for water
• 1/2 cup honey
• 1 cup crème fraîche, whipped to soft peaks
Drain candied ginger and candied lemon; mince very finely; mix in a bowl along with some of their syrups just until mixture is spreadable; reserve.
Cut 1 pear crosswise into thin rounds; cut each round into leaf-like shape with ring cutter; place in bowl of water with a little lemon juice; reserve.
Whisk honey and 1/2 cup juice in a bowl; scoop balls from remaining pear with #20 and #25 Parisian scoops; place balls in honey mixture; reserve.
To serve, spread 1 tsp. candied ginger and candied lemon down center of each plate with offset spatula; place poached pear ring in center of each plate; dot with pear puree and crème fraîche; arrange crumble and a few pear parisiennes down plate; repeat with leaf-like pears; place 1 tsp. honey brittle to one side on each plate; top with quenelle pear sorbet.
What to drink: Királyudvar Lapis 6 Puttonyos Tokaji Hungary 2003