Lobster en Consommé with Pink Lady Apple Granité & Fennel
Brad McDonald, Governor, Brooklyn, New York / September 2012
For 8 servings (requires advance preparation)
Pink Lady apple granité:
- 6 Pink Lady apples, peeled, cored, and quartered
- 1/4 tsp. salt
Juice apples; skim foam from surface of juice; whisk in salt; strain through fine chinois into Pacojet canister; cover; freeze overnight.
Process granité in Pacojet spinning for 30 seconds; remove ice from top of canister to airtight container; repeat process, spinning and scraping until entire mixture has turned to flaky ice; cover; reserve in freezer.
- 8 Fourchu lobsters, blanched, meat from tails, knuckles, and claws removed from shells
- 1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil
- 1 Tbsp. tomato paste
- 1 onion, cut into large dice
- 1 leek, cut into large dice
- 1 carrot, cut into large dice
- tomalley from 1 lobster
- 4 cups light chicken stock
- 1 Pink Lady apple, cut into large dice
- 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 1 small sprig thyme
- 1 lg. egg white
Remove gills from lobsters; cut carcasses into quarters.
Heat oil in large rondeau set over medium heat; add lobster carcasses; cook, stirring occasionally, until shells turn red and are lightly caramelized.
Add tomato paste; stir well; cook 1 minute; add onion, leek, and carrot; cook, stirring occasionally, 3 to 4 minutes; add lobster tomalley, stock, and 4 cups water; bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium-high; simmer 20 minutes; stir in apple, garlic, and thyme; cook 10 minutes; remove from heat; strain through fine chinois into clean pot; cool; cover; reserve in refrigerator until cold.
Bring stock to a boil; whisk egg white and 1/4 cup cold water in small bowl; whisk into stock; cook until egg has coagulated; skim off egg white and solids; reduce consommé by about 50 percent; reserve (keep warm).
- 2 fennel bulbs, thinly shaved
- lemon oil
- chives, chopped
- fennel fronds
- fennel flowers
- fennel oil
Place shaved fennel in a bowl; drizzle with lemon oil; sprinkle with chives; toss to combine; reserve.
To serve, spoon granité in an arc about 1/3 of circumference along outer rim of flat-bottomed bowls; arrange lobster meat over granité, as if it’s resting on a bed of ice; top with dressed fennel; garnish with fennel fronds and flowers and tarragon; ladle consommé into bowls; season with fennel oil (it’s important to freeze bowls before plating).
What to drink: Hirsch Riesling Qualitätswein Trocken Kamptal Zöbing 2009
Chef’s Note: These cold-water lobsters with a bracingly sweet flavor come from Fourchu, a small fishing village in Nova Scotia.