Chilled Lemon/Fennel Pollen & Ramp Soups
Cure, Pittsburgh, Justin Severino / July 2013
For 12 servings (requires advance preparation)
Tarragon/yogurt panna cotta:
- 6 sheets gelatin, bloomed in cold water
- 2 cups Greek yogurt, strained
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 2 Tbsps. tarragon, coarsely chopped
- 1 Tbsp. fennel pollen
- 1 tsp. granulated sugar
Line 1/8 sheet tray with plastic wrap; reserve.
Place yogurt in heatproof bowl; reserve.
Heat cream, tarragon, and fennel pollen in a saucepan set over low heat; cook at bare simmer 45 minutes (do not bring to a boil); add sugar; season with salt; cook, stirring, until sugar and salt have dissolved; remove from heat; strain mixture through fine mesh strainer over yogurt; whisk until combined.
Set bowl over pot of simmering water; squeeze water from gelatin; add gelatin to cream mixture; cook, whisking constantly, until gelatin has dissolved; remove from heat; strain; pour into prepared baking sheet; refrigerate until set; reserve.
Lemon/fennel pollen soup:
- 6 cups Meyer lemon juice, strained
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- 2 Tbsps. fennel pollen
- 1/2 tsp. xanthan gum
Bring juice, sugar, and fennel pollen to a boil in a saucepan; reduce by 50 percent; remove from heat.
Place in a blender; with motor running on low speed, gradually add xanthan gum; blend until smooth; place in clean saucepan; reserve in refrigerator.
- 1 lb. ramps, cleaned and trimmed
- 6 oz. extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 onion, thinly sliced
- fennel pollen (for garnish)
- 6 oz. trout roe
- green baby sprouts, any variety
Separate ramp stems from bulbs; thinly slice both; reserve separately.
Heat 2 oz. oil in large pot set over low heat; add onion and ramp bulbs; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened; add 1 cup water; bring to a boil; add ramp stems; cover; cook until bright green and tender (about 4 minutes); remove pot from heat.
Place 5 cups ice into the pot (to shock ramps to hold bright color); stir to melt; immediately add to blender; blend on high, gradually adding remaining 4 oz. oil; emulsify to smooth consistency; season with salt; strain through fine chinois into a bowl set in ice bath to rapidly chill; reserve.
To serve, ladle 1/4 cup lemon/fennel pollen soup into each serving bowl; cut panna cotta into 1/2" cubes; place 5 pieces into each bowl; sprinkle with fennel pollen; place 1/2 oz. trout roe on and around panna cotta; garnish with sprouts; pour 3/4 cup ramp soup into each bowl tableside.
What to drink: Domaine de Montbourgeau Crémant du Jura NV Adam Milliron