Angus McRitchie
Normand Laprise's (Toqué! & Brasserie T! in Montreal) Sea Urchin Mousse with Soy Jelly, Vegetable Salad & Camelina Seeds
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Sea Urchin Mousse with Soy Jelly, Vegetable Salad & Camelina Seeds

Toqué! & Brasserie T!, Montreal, Normand Laprise / July 2013

For 8 servings (requires advance preparation)

Sea urchin mousse:

  • 2 Tbsps. rice wine vinegar
  • 12 sea urchins in shells, spines and mouth parts removed with shears
  • 12 Tbsps. unsalted butter
  • 4 lg. egg yolks
  • 3 Tbsps. heavy cream, brought just to a boil and cooled
  • 3 Tbsps. Cognac, flambéed
  • salt
  • black pepper, freshly ground
  1. Heat oven to 220°F.

  2. Mix vinegar and 1 1/2 cups water in a bowl; fill another 3 bowls with ice; carefully scoop out inside of urchins, running spoon around inner surface of shells; place urchin insides in first bowl; remove the roe (orange-beige meatier part, also known as the gonads) and place in second bowl; rinse roe again in third bowl; place on paper towels to drain (you should have 3/4 lb. roe); reserve.

  3. Heat butter in small pot set over low heat; cook until light brown; cool; reserve.

  4. Process roe, egg yolks, cream, and Cognac until smooth; season; with motor running, gradually add butter; process until emulsified; strain through fine chinois into a bowl; pour into 2 oz. ramekins, dividing evenly; place ramekins in roasting pan; fill pan with water to come about halfway up sides of ramekins; bake until instant-read thermometer inserted in centers of mousse registers 162°F; remove from oven; remove from water bath; cool; place on baking sheet; cover with plastic wrap; reserve in refrigerator overnight.

Soy jelly:

  • 3 oz. sake
  • 1 oz. mirin
  • 2 tsps. soy sauce
  • 2 sheets gelatin, bloomed in cold water

Bring sake, mirin, and soy sauce to a boil in small saucepan; remove from heat; squeeze water from gelatin; whisk into sake mixture until gelatin is dissolved; strain; cool slightly; pour over cold urchin mousse; reserve in refrigerator 1 hour.

Assembly:

  • 16 radish slices
  • 16 wild strawberries, hulled
  • 8 asparagus spears, sliced
  • 8 tomato slices
  • 8 rhubarb spears, sliced
  • 1/4 cup sea buckthorn berries
  • olive oil
  • salt
  • black pepper, freshly ground
  • 2 Tbsps. camelina seeds
  1. Mix radish slices, strawberries, asparagus, tomato, rhubarb, and buckthorn berries in a bowl; drizzle with oil; season; toss; reserve.

  2. To serve, spoon salad onto serving plates; sprinkle with camelina seeds; place sea urchin mousse next to salad.

What to drink: Rugoli Davide Spillare Garganega del Veneto Bianco 2011