Anthony Tahlier
Sautéed Skate Wing with Little Gem Lettuce, Pickled Ramps, Butter Pudding & Hazelnuts from chef/owner Paul Kahan of Big Star, Blackbird, The Publican, The Violet Hour, and Publican Quality Meats in Chicago
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Sautéed Skate Wing with Little Gem Lettuce, Pickled Ramps, Butter Pudding & Hazelnuts

Paul Kahan, Big Star, Blackbird, The Publican, The Violet Hour, and Publican Quality Meats, Chicago - September 2013

For 4 servings

Butter pudding:

  • 4 lg. egg yolks
  • 2 1/2 Tbsps. tapioca starch
  • 2 cups plus 2 Tbsps. whole milk
  • 3/4 cup plus 2 Tbsps. heavy cream
  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar
  • salt
  • 1 1/4 cups unsalted butter, chilled and cubed
  1. Mix egg yolks and starch in a blender on low speed until light and frothy.

  2. Bring milk, cream, and sugar to a boil in a saucepan; remove from heat; with motor running on medium, gradually add to egg mixture; blend until thickened (about 30 seconds; should be consistency of mayonnaise).

  3. Gradually add butter; blend until completely incorporated; season; pour into airtight container; cool; cover; reserve in refrigerator until cold.

  4. Pour pudding into whipped cream canister (reserve remaining pudding for another use); charge with 2 CO2 cartridges; reserve in refrigerator.

Pickled ramps:

  • 1 bunch ramps
  • 1 cup Champagne vinegar
  • granulated sugar
  • salt
  1. Place ramps in a bowl; reserve.

  2. Place vinegar and 1/3 cup water in small saucepan; season with sugar and salt; bring to a boil, stirring until sugar and salt have dissolved; remove from heat; pour over ramps; cool; cover with plastic wrap; let stand overnight at room temperature; reserve.

Hazelnut vinagrette:

  • 3 Tbsps. rice bran oil
  • 3 Tbsps. hazelnut oil
  • 3 Tbsps. Champagne vinegar
  • 1 shallot, minced
  • salt
  • black pepper, freshly ground

Whisk oils, vinegar, and shallot in a bowl; season; cover with plastic wrap; reserve.

Assembly:

  • 1/2 cup blanched hazelnuts
  • 2 Tbsps. isomalt
  • 1/4 cup canola oil
  • 4  3-oz. portions skate wing, cartilage removed
  • 2 heads Little Gem lettuce, leaves separated
  • salt
  • black pepper, freshly ground
  1. Heat oven to 350°.

  2. Mix hazelnuts and isomalt on baking sheet lined with nonstick baking pad; bake, stirring occasionally, until golden; remove from oven; cool; break up nuts; place in airtight container; reserve.

  3. Heat oil in large cast-iron skillet; working in batches, sauté skate until brown; flip; cook until brown and opaque in center; remove from heat; reserve (keep warm).

  4. To serve, place 1 wing on each plate; dispense some pudding on top of skate; place lettuce in a bowl; drizzle with vinaigrette; toss to coat; season; place some salad next to skate; garnish plate with candied hazelnuts and pickled ramps.

What to drink: Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Spätlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Wehlener Sonnenuhr 1991