Crab & Bone Marrow with Horseradish Cream

Murray McDonald, Fogo Island Inn, Joe Batt’s Arm, Fogo Island, Newfoundland, Canada - June 2014

For 10 servings (requires advance preparation)

Bone marrow:

  • 10 6" to 8" marrow bones, split lengthwise
  • 10 qts. plus 2 cups (9.8L) whole milk, cold

Remove any remaining bone meal from surface of marrow; remove all sinew and meat left on bone (bone should be completely exposed and free from any fragments or trim); place in a large Cambro container; add milk (bones should be completely covered); refrigerate 48 hours (if bones are exceptionally bloody, rinse bones and refresh milk after 24 hours).

Garlic chips:

  • 3 1/2 oz. (100g) garlic, thinly sliced
  • 7 Tbsps. (105ml) whole milk
  • 7 Tbsps. (105ml) grapeseed oil
  1. Place garlic and milk in large bowl; let stand 2 hours; drain; rinse garlic; pat dry; reserve.

  2. Heat oil in small pot until thermometer registers 300°F; add garlic; fry until crisp but not brown; remove; place on paper towels to drain; season; reserve; cool garlic oil; cover in airtight container; reserve.

Garlic bread crumbs:

  • 2 lbs. (1K) brioche, cut into 1" cubes
  • clarified butter, melted
  • salt
  • black pepper, freshly cracked
  • 2 Tbsps. plus 1/4 tsp. (5g) thyme leaves
  1. Heat oven to 350°F.

  2. Place bread in large bowl; drizzle with some butter; season; toss to coat; spread out on baking sheet lined with parchment paper; bake, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and dry (about 15 minutes); remove from oven; cool.

  3. Place bread in a processor; pulse until coarsely chopped (pieces should be about 1/8" large); place in a bowl; add reserved garlic oil, garlic chips, and thyme; toss to combine; season; cover with plastic wrap; reserve.

Lemon/spruce preserves:

  • 3 lemons, zested and cut into suprêmes
  • 7 Tbsps. (85g) granulated sugar
  • 1 3/4 oz. (50g) spruce tips
  1. Place lemon segments in nonreactive bowl; reserve.

  2. Bring sugar and 7 Tbsps. (105ml) water to a boil in a saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved; add zest; simmer 5 minutes; remove from heat; pour over reserved lemon segments; cool; stir in spruce tips; cover with plastic wrap; reserve in refrigerator.

Bay leaf mayonnaise:

  • 25ml dry white wine
  • 25ml white wine vinegar
  • 1 lemon, sliced
  • 2 shallots, thinly sliced
  • 3 fresh bay leaves
  • 1/2 tsp. thyme leaves
  • 1/4 tsp. black peppercorns
  • 1 lg. egg yolk
  • 250ml grapeseed oil
  • salt
  1. Bring wine, vinegar, lemon, shallots, bay leaves, thyme leaves, and peppercorns to a boil in large saucepan; boil until reduced by half; remove from heat; cool; strain through fine chinois into a bowl; discard solids; cool reduction.

  2. Process egg yolk and bay leaf reduction in a processor; with motor running, gradually add oil; process until emulsified and smooth; season; cover in airtight container; reserve in refrigerator.

Crab salad:

  • 1 cup (100g) celery, fibers removed, thinly sliced on a diagonal, making a U-shape cut
  • 2 1/3 tsps. (10g) granulated sugar
  • 1/2 tsp. (2g) citric acid
  • 1 lb. plus 1 1/2 oz. (500g) snow crabmeat, picked over
  • 3/4 cup (20g) celery leaves, cut into chiffonade
  1. Combine celery, sugar, citric acid, and 2 tsps. (10ml) water in a vacuum-sealable plastic food bag; vacuum seal; let stand 3 hours (celery should be translucent but still crisp); reserve.

  2. Mix 7 Tbsps. compressed celery, crabmeat, 7 Tbsps. bay leaf mayonnaise, and celery leaves in large bowl; cover with plastic wrap; reserve in refrigerator.

Horseradish cream:

  • 2 cups plus 2 Tbsps. (500ml) crème fraîche
  • 2 Tbsps. (30g) horseradish, freshly grated
  • salt

Mix crème fraîche and horseradish in a bowl; season; cover with plastic wrap; reserve in refrigerator.

Assembly:

  • 7 Tbsps. (105ml) grapeseed oil
  • 10 garlic cloves, peeled
  • sm. spruce boughs (for serving)
  • 40 snow crab segments
  • celery leaves (for garnishing)
  1. Heat oil and garlic in a saucepan until thermometer registers 275°F; simmer until garlic is softened and golden brown (about 30 minutes); remove from heat; reserve (keep warm).

  2. Heat convection oven to 375°F with fan on low speed.

  3. Place bone marrow on baking sheet, using aluminum foil to prop up bone marrow to keep it straight; bake until marrow fat is almost completely softened (about 12 minutes); remove from oven; coat top of bone with garlic bread crumbs; bake until bread crumbs are golden brown and marrow fat is completely cooked; remove from oven.

  4. To serve, place some spruce boughs in large cast-iron pan; place a bone marrow on top; place 1 1/2 Tbsps. crab salad on bone; top salad with crab segments and 2 pieces lemon/spruce preserves; top with some horseradish cream; place 1 warm clove garlic confit on top; garnish with remaining compressed celery and celery leaves; light spruce bough tips on fire; burn until they begin to smoke.

What to drink: Adega Condes de Albarei Albariño Rias Baixas 2012